The Neapolitan Crib
It’s the 23 of December, I have no idea how to deal with a Christmas decoration.
Because of my Jewish religion, I have never had a Christmas tree at home even less a crib. The house where I am a gust is going to follow this tradition therefore I am invited to come along by my hosts to explore a new world for me that in Naples starts at the famous road San Gregorio Armeno in the center of the Centro Storico (Historic Center).
As I walk in the very crowded road, I notice several small shops and colorful stalls by the dozens with artisans and craftsmen working on and displaying small delicate sculptures representing humans, shepherds, peasants, laundresses, vendors, pastures, cattle, sheep, the three kings, angels, I am immediately told that those are figures, called Pastori give rise to a theatrical scene, the Presepe, or nativity scene or crib, with lights and music as main religious symbol of the Neapolitan Christmas.
I am also told by my friends that the construction of Neapolitan crib traditionally begins the eight in December from storage pulling out the “basis” of the previous year (a skeleton cork and cardboard resting on a wooden table, without pastors and various decorations) and the possible enlargement like adding the wood oven or ruscelletto (small river) with water and a few more sheep in the flock is discussed in the family and with children.
The story focuses on the birth of Christ, recalling the events of some evangelical and pastoral-bucolic images. With its origin back in the Middle Age as a handicrafts and a folk tradition it is only in the Baroque age that it acquired a form of high artistic expression developing an interest in addition to the religious symbols (Virgin Mary, St. Joseph, Sacred Child Jesus) the small and middle class, everyday life and the agricultural or Pastoral world. A remarkable example is the Presepe Cuciniello (Cuciniello’s crib), which consists of 162 people, 80 animals, 28 angels, and about 450 miniature items, and considered among the finest nativity scenes in the world is exhibited in the San Martino Museum in Naples.
Suddenly, it’s not difficult to realize, watching the magnificent presepi exhibited in the first floor of number 55 of San Gregorio Armenio, at the famous 1836 leading master craftsman Giuseppe Ferrigno shop and son that the Neapolitan crib becomes the representation of the place where both in the eighteen hundred to our days the sacred and profane, spirituality and daily life, prayer and irony live together in a city of contradictions.
Marco Ferrigno, Giuseppe ’s son explains while offering the best brown foamed expresso ever that the faces of the Pastori are made in polychrome terracotta, the eyes in crystal, their hands hand crafted in wood, the costume fabrics sourced in antique shops and auctions throughout the year are made from old silk factory San Leucio and embroidered in the Italian city of Modena in the manner of renaissance Turkish sultans. The family starts working on February to produce
The expressions, like the one of Carmela (one of Marco’s favorites, he likes her hair, ) is taken after a pictures of a lady neighbor that lives next door with that name, every year apart those who are the traditional characters like Quasimodo, Procida and Caprese, the personification of a new personaggio (Character) from a real person is introduced to the superbe family collection of presepi as to keep the tradition alive.
I realize that the shops offer such a vast variety of products that it is impossible to keep them on track with my camera. Whatever the subject, the statue of an animal, basket of fruit, a port fish, a mill will enrich the choreographed set of presepe-palcoscenico (crib -set) and clearly my sharp and attentive lens.
I can easily sense an atmosphere of agitating rush around me while I walk haunted by those terracotta figures, having the impression that they are all intensely staring at me and dramatically wandering why I haven’t yet picked them up yet to placed them in my crib…. Even being a Jewish girl I am aware that everything must be ready by tomorrow evening.
Joelle’s Piks:
The stores:
Giuseppe e Marco Ferrigno: Via San Gregorio Armeno,n 8/10/55, Napoli, to order in adavance their products, please call the following number: +39081 / 552 31 48. Delivery could be as early as two weeks, and depending on the Character, a year. Average price 700 Euros per 56 cms figure. www.atreferrigno.it
Arte del Pastore e del Presepe: Via San Gregorio Armeno , 6/7 - Napoli. Tel/Fax 39 081 55 16 221. Here you can find more affordable naitivity figures and order directly on line on categories and finishes, Concetta de store owner will ship directly worldwide upon availability. www.artedelpastore.com
The permanent exhibitions:
Complesso Museale di Santa Chiara : Santa Chiara Eighteen Hundred Nativity Scene at their Chiostro, absolutely magnificent!
via Santa Chiara, 49c
80134 - Napoli
tel +39 081.195.759.15
fax +39 081.195.758.59
Museo Nazionale di San Martino
Cucciniello ’s crib.
Museo di San Martino Largo San Martino, 5
80129 - Napoli
Tel.e Fax: 0039.081.5781769; 081.2294498
Arte Presepiale Naploetana Natale 2007 ( seasonal)
Piazza della Chiesa del Gesu Nuovo ( see photo gallery in last post) tel 39 33 93 61 98 02
Readings : The Metropolitan Annual Neapolitan Christmas Crib
