Architour
“Who was it ? It was Matisse who said when I paint and I don’t have anymore blue I use red? — Charles Boccara
Viewing Morocco’s architecture can be frustrating as historic Arabic construction is, by nature, inward-looking and private; and, almost always hidden behind a high wall. Add to the fact that in Morocco mosques are closed to non-Muslims and you’ll see why much of the city’s architectonic eye candy is to be found in the details.
In one sense, the riad-phenomenon has been saving grace. Many of these homes were wreks before the boom. Not only did their renovation rekindle and the dying arts of stucco, mosaic and woodwork, it also means what the best city architecture can now be accessed for the price of a room or a meaI.
The new Moroccan style has been the subject of many a cofee-table book, and architects such as Stuart Church and Charles Boccara, and the designer Bill Willis have transformed ruins into stunning palaces,whose splendor greets you as soon as you cross their threshold down a dark Medina Alley.
Tunisian-born Charles Boccara,French of nationality, (he considers himself an’ Inhabitant of the Mediterranean’) and today most famous architect in Morocco kindly agrees to meet me at the one of his design signature hotel Les Deux Tours , earthen-red-villas in a lush of blossom-and palm filled garden in the very chic Palmeraie quarter. Among other restaurants and a theatre , the new Caravanserai hotel , located slightly out of town with a marvelous view ovr the Atlas Mountains from its roof terrace.
Together with Bill Willis he kicked off the whole moder-ideas-with Moroccan-materials philosophy that still underpins Marrakech style. He tells me in a lovely Aubergine (eggplant) color tadelak room next to a old Zelije tiling fireplace that he is appreciative of nostalgic ambiances and classical style because” with the passing of time the more we get older the more we have doubts about everything.”
Now maybe, I want o use one’s quality of being lazy… In my youth I used to be an inventor, designing windows in the shape of eyes, almonds, triangles, and I got tired- I realized that the color white was already given to me so I can add more.” He then surprises me with his poetic comparison:
“It’s like great music, that entrance hall , I did it on a capriccioso and like a great opera for example, the living room is a Moderato, Andante Moderato, and that large dining room you see at our left is Faust. And with all this I finally can get in piece with myself. When do something you must go until the end..for example the small Salon Indien a ” petit delire Indien”.
He speaks about mosaics, patios compares Moroccan ground plans to those French palaces points to a common vocabulary of arcades, domes,and arches. About Les Deux Tours? I ask, ” When you do a hotel you must create a story, and the story is about a great seigneur at the beginning of the century who naturally built a house in the middle of the desert gradually annexing rooms to please them.
Talking about friends, Hassan Kadiri a young developer originally from Casablanca, who came with me calls is telling me that if I wish to watch the sunset over the Palmeraie and tour for a few other small riads and be back home on time Shabbat candles ( It’s Friday) we should be leaving now.
I give a warm hug to Charles Boccara thank for his time and kind hospitality. He still has no idea why I had the desire to meet him (I don’t have an architectural magazine) but wishes with a smile the best of luck to all.
Sunset is marvelous, Palmeraie has been for long the city enclave of luxury and glorious isolation surrounded by date palms and mud-brick villages and part-time homes of Rotchild, Rockfeller, Patrick Guetrrand Hermes, Paul Getty Jr, Agnelli, Poniatovsky.The range of hight-luxe accomodation simply staggering. Houses in Berber style are flagships for the Four Seasons, Banyan Tree , Mandarin Oriental, groups to come who are all competing for a piece of this blissful land, all promising ‘ sanctuary of senses’ although the most city iconic five-star, La Mamounia, is not due to reopen until late 2008 undergoing extensive renovations.
Hassan tells me while I reflect about Marrakech future developments that we will soon be at the large townhouse riad El Fenn a few meters down a little derb close to Bab El Ksour back to the Medina.
The enchanting and almost secret house was originally built like a fortress, the ancient walls are over a metre thick, all sound of the bustling Medina is shut out, and as you enter the building you are immediately submerged by feeling of beauty and peace taking over your senses. Aware of their obligation to restore this previous old house of a great historical importance, the owners took care of details picking materials locally sourced and put in place by local wonderful craftsmen.
The rose gardens and the internal courtyards are my favorite together with the great large collection of incredible embroidered straw hats each of them different on the your own private small pool daybeds.
We have still time to check another interesting riad, among the 500 to 600 estimated number in Marrakech’s Medina. Riad Lotus Perle.
Hassan and Adriana watch with attention my reaction as soon as I open the heavy wood door.This riad posses a decadent vibe . It sans for its Deco touches-black and white is the order of the day, such as in the reception area-with Murano chandeliers, leather chesterfields, chinoiserie, animal skins and vintage photography completing the Sheik-in-New York-feel. While passing the Jaqueline Kennedy suite, you can spend some time miling on the roof on the jacuzzi contemplating the vie of the Bab Doukala mosque over a drink.
At last, one of my favorite places, Dar Cherifa. Sometimes you ust need a book and a good lie down.This splendid Literary Cafe and art gallery is set on a 16 th-century ryad,where every detail has been stripped back and allowed to breath. Sit on cushions on the floor and order a medley of light Moroccan salads-candied tomatoes,slices of courgette marinated in olive oil and lemon juice. A few selection of Moroccan books on art over a mint tea.
The owner of Dar Charifa is Abdelatif Ben Abdellah, a cultural doyen who holds literary readings and exhibitions here.I heard somewhere you can tip the waitress well,while you ask for the date of his next soiree.
Now if you’ll excuse me candle lighting is waiting for me!
Shabbat Shalom
Joelle’s Tips:
The Architect: Boccara Charles av. Yacoub el Mansour, villa Nous deux - 40000 Marrakech Tél. : 024 43 00 30 Fax : 024 43 60 66 Email : archiboc@menara.ma
The Library: Dar Charifa- 8 Derb Chorfa Lakbir (off Rue Mouassine) Medina Marrakesh Morocco 40000/ Tel: 212 2 442 6463
Gardens and Sites: Jardins Majorelle - Saadian Tombs -Ben Yussef Medersa
Riads and Hotels: Riad El Fenn - Riad Lotus Perle - Caravan Serai - Les Deux Tours - La Sultana
The Developer: Siddharta Hassan Kadiri 105.Bd Rahal El Meskini, Casablanca, Tel + 212 22 31 25 00/ fax + 212 22 31 22 59
Petter Hegre's
