Cuisine from Land and Sea
Land and sea. From the teeming coastal waters to the fertile plains come Sorrento lemons and Vesuvian apricots, Paestum artichokes and lobsters from the gulf of Salerno. A continent waiting to be discovered, where quality and territory are closely linked and nature and history dine at the same table.
Spaghetti, wood burning stove pizza and buffalo mozzarella have made Neapolitan cuisine famous worldwide but there are other surprises in store for anyone wishing to stray off the beaten track. The rest of the Campania has all this and more: the sea-based cuisine of the coast. The islands and the villages of Cilento, Procida, Capri, Ischia, Caserta, and Positano have made the Mediterranean diet so famous.
This is without mentioning the production of extra-virgin olive oil and wine, which has had a strong tradition here since Greek and Roman times: from Lacryma Christi, Solopaca, Fiano di Avellino and Greco di Tufo.
Unmistakable aromas, such as freshly baked bread, flavors and colors of raw materials that for thousand years have been equated to the Campanian sunshine. During my stay in the region I have enjoyed, (with the price of gaining a few extra pounds) to savor everyday different dishes, and local gastronomical specialties at times in restaurants, traditional bakeries and Neapolitan homes.
Traditional Neapolitan cuisine is divided equally between land and sea, and “poor” and “rich” recipes. Working-class dishes include Minestra Maritata a meat and vegetable soup. The rich dishes once eaten by the aristocracy on the other hand, include elaborate and spectacular specialties such as macaroni timballo and Rice Sartu.
The Neapolitans are such great vegetable-lovers that in the 17th century they earned the name of leaf-eaters; hence the inclusion of produce from land in dishes such escarole pizza, aubergine parmigiana, stuffed peppers, courgette marinated “alla scapece ” and friatelli (bitterish broccoli grown only in Campania) with sausages also served as antipasti ( before meals) dishes.
Unusual combinations are being experimented with the local sea cuisine in the Phlegraean Fields, a place of sensational archaeological landscape and thermal-water attractions. These include “scialatelli” (type of fresh pasta) with prawn and courgettes or “Paccheri” with mussels and broccoli. Without disowning tradition: mussel “impepata”, risotto alla pescatora, bass all’ acqua pazza” delicious barbecued “pezzogne” (scorpion- fish)”. Washed down with a delicious glass of chilled white wine such as Coda di Volpe, the famous Falanghina or Falerno—perfect!
Procida, the isle of lemons, is filled with restaurants overlooking the beaches in the village of Marina di Corricella. Local dishes? Anchovies marinated in onions, vinegar, olives, colatura, (an extract made with anchovies caught in the golf of Salerno using a special salting process and obtained by pressing the anchovies), paisley and capers. A delicious condiment “a freddo” (eaten cold) for hot pasta. Enormous lemons are a particular specialty: sweet and thick-skinned, they can weigh up to half a kilo.
The people eat the lemons in salads, with mint, garlic and chili. They use the leaves to roll up slices of mozzarella for the grill—like they do at my favorite restaurant Da Paolino in Capri close to the port of Marina Grande. Lemons are also used to make a variety of liquors, (Limoncello), sorbets, water ices (Sgroppino) and to perfume the confectioner’s custard used to fill the cake known as “Lingua di Bue” (Ox tongue) made from fine pastry filled with custard and spread with honey.
On the splendid Sorrento Peninsula, where citrus and olive trees create the characteristic landscape, the gastronomic tradition boasts illustrious stars: Gragnano pasta mafalde “Alla Nerano ” (with courgettes basil and Pecorino), dairy products like fior-di-latte , caciocavallo, ricotta and provola, cheese from the Lattari Mountains, lemons and oil from Sorrento, dulcis in fundo the renowed “Torta Caprese ” a chocolate and almond cake that also comes in a version of ice-cream and recently in lemon. Perhaps all accompanied by a drop of the highly scented liqueur from Capri lemons, Limoncello…
Finally Capri, one of the top international tourist destination, is also enticing from the gastronomic point of view. It is rightly proud of its delicate ravioli elaborate stuffed squid and Caprese salad (mozzarella, tomato, basil and olive oil).
The traditional confectionery, which is based on several great classics such as Baba, and Sfogliatella (a very fine shaped pastry dripping with trickles of custard and garnished with black cherries). Even King Ferdinand of Bourbon was known to be seduced by it. My favorite is the Nocciola (hazel- nut) ice-cream at Ciro in Naples Mergellina.
In concluding this stylish gastronomical trip, I suggest you sit down at one of the romantic restaurants on the beach at Positano where you can sample dishes from the sea and finish off with a sublime dessert and sip Cona dei Martini—a sexy, delicious and refreshing fruit liqueur while enjoying the charming surroundings.
If you prefer the lemon, mandarin, licorice (my favorite), strawberry, wild fennel, walnut or myrtle liqueur, then let me know about it!
Joelle’s Tips:
The Restaurants:
Capri:
Da Paolino: For the best oven grilled mozzarella in lemon leaves and sea salt crusted Branzino (sea bass) Via Palazo a mare ,11 tel 081 837 6490— Aurora : Very trendy atmosphere Via Fuorlovado,18-22-tel 081 837 0584 —Le Grotelle: Amazing surroundings and a nice walk at night Via arco Naturale- Tel 081 837 0833—Ojne: International Jet-set crowd Via Sella Orta,10-tel 081 8389473- Verginello: Mostly Italians and locals,excellent sea food Via Lo Palazzo,25-tel 081837 0665
On Naples Bay:
All with one Michelin star The restaurants given are in order, clockwise around the bay.
La Minesetta:A superb antipasto of local citrus-marinated sea bass was adorned with slivers of lemon peel.Our little ricotta cake with cooked pear slices, and sfogliata di mandorle (almond paste enclosed in a soft crust) Via Lungolago 2, 80070 Bacoli NA; (39-081) 5234169, fax (39-081) 5231510. Closed Monday; meal for two, $100. From Naples (17 miles), take the Tangenziale (bypass) in the direction of Pozzuoli and follow signs for Arco Domiziano
Il Principe: Traditional Neapolitan cuisine. Pompeian decor. Specialty, Paccheri di Gragnano- short large-bore pasta tubes, made nearby - are served sauced with scorpion fish and sweet peppers, their flavors deliciously trapped by the pasta’s rough surface.The restaurant’s signature dessert, Cassata di Oplontis, was invented by an Italian archaeologist-cook inspired by a Roman fresco. Based on cassata siciliana, a ricotta and almond confection, it is adapted for Old World food supplies: honey replaces sugar, dried fruits replace candied. , Piazza Bartolo Longo 8, 80045 Pompei NA; (39-081) 8505566, fax (39-081) 8633342; , Lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday; lunch only Sunday; price, $110. There is a smoking section. The restaurant is in the center of the modern town of Pompei (15 miles from Naples) on the main piazza. It can be reached by train, or take the main highway, the A-3, Napoli-Pompei, from Naples.
Quattro Passi: Try the ravioli filled with smoked Provola cheese in a very flavorful tomato sauce with perfect tiny grilled lamb chops. Fish ‘’soup” — shrimp, scampi, palombo and mussels served on a plate with very little liquid and very sweet Campanian wines. The best are the individual soufflés, with hidden black cherries, into which custard sauce is poured.Quattro Passi, Via A. Vespucci,
13/N, Nerano-Marina del Cantone, (Massa Lubrense), 80068 Termini NA; (39-081) 8082800, phone and fax (39-081) 8081271; Open daily in summer; otherwise closed Wednesday; price, $135. Smoking in outdoor dining area. Directions as for Taverna del Capitano, below. Should you arrive by private boat, both restaurants will arrange to have you brought ashore
Taverna del Capitano, The meal begins with a viewing of the fish trolley, during which Mr. Caputo presents the fresh fish of the day and recites the preparations.The grand antipasto plate, which included asparagus wrapped in thin slices of octopus, crab roe and nearly raw tuna, elegantly arranged on a dark blue plate. Chef suggests simple dish that he said was typical of Nerano, where restaurants compete to create the best versions — spaghetti with sliced zucchini and a brilliant yellow, quite-liquid cheese sauce. It had such a strong but subtle flavor, such a creamy, mouth-filling texture. Piazza delle Sirene 10/11, Nerano-Marina del Cantone (Massa Lubrense), 80068 Termini NA; (39-081) 8081028, fax (39-081) 8081892. Closed Monday; open daily in summer; price, $105. Smoking and nonsmoking areas. From Naples (34 miles), follow signs first for Sorrento on SS-145, but before reaching Sorrento follow signs for Sant’Agata (or for the well-signposted Don Alfonso 1890), then for Massa Lubrense and then Marina del Cantone. Marina del Cantone is about 45 minutes from Positano, 15 minutes beyond Sant’Agata.
Some of the restaurants have rooms available, if you prefer not to risk these tricky roads after dinner.
Naples
For the best ice cream in the world, my favorite, hazel nut, Rochet, Baci
Bar Pasticceria Chalet Ciro A Mergellina- 31, V. Mergellina Napoli (Napoli) Campania
tel : 081669928
Sources:
Maureen B. Fant - Choice tables- New York Times
Marco Di Lello (Councelor for tourism and cultural resources) Campania wine and food tourism
