” …My name is Yela, I am 16 years old and today is my last day in this wonderful house that my grandfather built many years ago…I am going to marry the man who captured my love whom I love with all my heart…”

It’s my last day in Marrakech and I need a different experience. Believe it or not I am exhausted by the never ending stimuli of the city. I have got an indigestion of colors, people, products, music and food. Moreover, I feel a little nostalgic, maybe in need of meditative calm and a daydream of a perfect romantic and loving emotional state. I heard about a girl, who lived 250 years ago, and before leaving her house to get married, wrote a letter of her good fortune in love. I must find that place before I leave Marrakech.

The tall and strong driver dressed in black in James Bond style dark glasses is ready to pick my luggage from a possessive Hassan who doesn’t look very happy to see me go. Without a word, he puts the air conditioning on and crosses the entire Medina. We arrive in a strange place where he parks the car and a man with a donkey appears putting without words my luggage in a small truck disappearing in a split of a second. I decide not to talk either and follow this gigantic man to my destination.

Smells, noise,other donkeys, children screaming, heat, I am absolutely exhausted. After about a few minutes we lower out back towards a small wooden door, at number 58 I think. “Bonsoir Madame “. I can’t believe where I am . This extremely silent and luminous patio over a large pool of clear running blue water on red rose petals …My God, this is sanctuary.” Madame, can I offer you our national welcoming drink, fresh milk with dates” I have no time to answer, another woman also dressed in black takes away my sandals and puts on some comfortable cushioned white leather Babouch with the name Ana Yela on them. Without even realizing I find myself drinking milk. Since I was born I’ve never drank milk.

The beautiful and young Andrea Kolb comes with a welcoming smile. She enquires whether I had a good trip ( she has no idea I have become almost a Marrakchi which is just perfect for me and shows me my room saying Bernd her husband is waiting for me upstairs close to the ‘Magic Carpet’. Are these people nuts?

Wherever I look I see Arabic calligraphy hand-engraved and hammered on pure silver sheets on doors, walls and ceilings. A mystical music of harpsichords and small drums takes me away at distance, once more I find myself daydreaming while I notice my suitcase already neatly placed near a round and soft wool rug. I recognise on a niche on top of my bed a Nour Candle transformed in a dim lampshade. Where am I? In heaven? What are these texts on the walls? Prayers?

I quickly slip on a comfortable dark blue djellaba I bought at Yves Saint Laurent Jardins Majorelle entrance door from a man that he said needed to work, and after a quick shower I feel ready to meet the Bernd Kolb the owner of this enchantment and ask him all my questions under an I-pod- Belkin and over my well-deserved Moroccan Mint tea.

Ana Yela is a 300 years old city palace in the heart of the Medina. Ana Yela translates literally as “I am Yela” and the architecture tells the story of a girl called Yela who once lived in this house. Her letter apparently was found during the renovations. The restoration of the building took moths and was carried out using only traditional Moroccan craftsmanship,for which marrakech is famous worldwide. The work was carried by hand without the use of tools from more than 100 artisans.

Mohammed Taha the most renowned Koranic calligrapher hammered the story in silver over the vast doors in chronological order through the five suites of the house. Each one corresponding to a different chapter. My room belonged to the first chapter, the one where Yela meets for the first time her future husband. I decide to seriously reflect on that under the stars on the magic carpet after my far too interesting chat with this couple originally from Berlin, Germany.

Bernd and Andrea have more ambitious plans, Ana Yela is one of many other top luxurious boutique hotels in places where like in desert societies fundamentals are based on story telling and where the clash between the past authentic cultural traditions are hidden under modern society globalization creating substance and a certain energy ( A Porche next to a donkey) .

Thinking about the future and a true concern about today’s society problem solving, Kolb’s business model is inviting groups of people apart from guests to brainstorm their consciousness and creativity living an almost sanctified experience of the senses re-evaluating thus with the extreme relaxation and well-being their values, lifestyles and future directions. The common experiences will be extended on line and shared in a common social network called the “Ana Verse”

Sunset is calling me , Andrea and Bernd look at each other and understand my thoughts ….quickly they disappear reminding me that the dinner they are hosting will be served with other guests form New York at 9 in the dining room adjacent to the pool.

I have been told that breakfast or dinner can be served at the panoramic views of the ‘Flying Carpet’, the highest point in the city. I have also been told that this is where lovers would meet. I quickly grab my gold Aurora ink pen and a small piece of paper concentrating on the wind that will surely soon whisper in my ears those magic words (probably in Hebrew ) so that I can be inspired and transported after dinner without the Internet, over a roof of the red city, safe back home to be able to write on the Joelle Lifestyle, this magic and unforgettable experience that has been living for 10 days in Marrakech!

Enchallah!

Joelle’s Tips:

The Riad : Ana Yel

My friend, Adriana, decided to host a dinner in my honor.

She invited her friends and inaugurated the beautiful dining room at her Riad Nour. The table was adorned with colorful china from Italian fashion house Missoni, blue glass from Bohemia, laced place-mats from the region of Ceara, north of Brazil and surrounded by Syrian mother-of-pearl stunning chairs, light blue velvet sofas, heavily embroidered Indian pillows from Rajastan, red Moroccan roses, multicolored rose petals and lots, lots, lots of candles everywhere mostly around the pool of the riad internal patio.

Hassan, the man who came to pick me up the day I arrived, bought hundred of roses and spent the afternoon throwing their petals all around the house. He then took care of drinks, set the table with our help while his sister Latifa , the cook, took care of the Moroccan Coucous , lamb chops , marinated eggplants, quiche ( especially prepared for me as I don’t eat meat) and other Moroccan delicacies.

Among Adriana’s guests, a top haute couture designer Zineb Joundy, from Casablanca, former Comissaire de la Mode in France for Les ‘Temps du Maroc‘. Known for her intricate embroidering inlays with precious stones, and cultivated pearls on brocades especially created for her in India , her clients are mostly royal family brides, well informed Bohemian Jet-setters who wish a different ready-to-wear look and hopefully me in a very short time ( she’s always very busy)

After Zineb Joundy’s Paris-Dubai-Bahrain-London-Seville-Adis Abeba- New York-groundbreaking shows, she brought especially for me to see a small suitcase with samples of her latest productions from India where she spent all of last month. We all took a look before dinner (as she is also staying at the riad) .A French burgundy velvet coat and a double faced vibrant brocade kaftan sown in real gold threads.

Trying on those luxurious fabrics I realize how Zineb really understand the embrace of textiles wholeheartedly marring them magnificently slipping from the most fluid to the heaviest with such an ease and whirlwind effervescence. But we must rush, guest are almost here.

Adriana is ready, I am late as usually taking pictures non stop. On her way down to the stairs I ask her please to bring me my intimate underwear as I am still in the shower, some guests have arrived and I can’t absolutely run down. Her answer is the following:” I am awfully sorry, with these shoes ( Golden Yves Saint Laurent wood gigantic -hill platforms) I can only go down. the stairs.” Ok- I say-have Hassan bring it to me!” Her reply:” Hassan? Your intimate appareil? I am afraid it will not be possible, he’s a Muslim, he cannot go around the house with things like that! -Wear nothing, you are pretty enough as you are !”

Dinner goes very well. The atmosphere is involving, the music is nostalgically magic, wines, Champagne and Rose are served throughout the evening. In front of me a gentleman tells a joke in perfect French; He wears a a very elegant dark blue velvet jacket similar to the ones I saw at the souq this morning at Beldi. After realizing I am from New York, he tells me he has been the ambassador of Lebanon in that city for twelve years. I then find out a few minutes later, that my fathers grew up with his best friends in Beirut approximately fifty years ago.

Sitting next to him his wife Margherita, a Spanish entrepreneur with real estate resorts in Acapulco Mexico, dressed in a latest 2008 Spring-Summer upbeat Boho-style Ungaro crepe- de -soie with an Emeralds pendant from India and Youssef that laugh amused at the incredible coincidence. He now works as a public relations in Marrakech but is originally from Belgium and once more as a coincidence , his parents and mine are today neighbours in Bruxelles.

These coincidences get me tired. I decide to switch company and to sit in the living room for liquors next to my beloved idol, Claude Challe. the idiosyncratic figure in France’s musical landscape, a catalyst and visionary musician. Claude always managed to be on the cutting edge of youth fashions across the 1960s and 1970s, reappearing in the late ’90s with even greater appeal.

He is sitting on the green couch next to a very nice and tanned middle-aged couple from the island of Palma de Majorca both wearing impeccable embroidered white linen kaftans .The lady expression in her face is of attentive surprise while Claude transported is elaborating with enthusiasm details about the Thai brothel’s sex menus in the city of Bangcok. He explains how it’s good to be washed, fed and taken care of. The lady turns to her husband and asks” Amor, temos esto en la Espagna?”( Do we have this is Spain?) I did not hear the husband answer but most of all I was interested to talk myself to Claude, not necessarily about sex but about his spiritual and creative mind.

This fashion and nightlife entrepreneur, and new age guru finally is in my hands. He tells me with non-chalence with a bit of bitterness that the mp3 world of pirate downloads world took his stamina away. He confides me has more ambitious projects, and that he wants to do films.

With the depth of my best of stares, a studied frown simulating intrigued interest and a wide smile I seduce him to speak more on this precious information firstly and unconsciously for my own curiosity then for the blog . Therefore I ask :” Claude, will you do a movie? What kind of movie? ” I don’t know if he really looked at me but carried on telling me the movie title” Mister Sun”. It’s about the changes people, apparently angels will do to improve it.. It will be filmed in India and probably in Thailand. Proudly with an enormous smile he twishpers in my ear almost as a secret that he invited the Dalai Lama who already accepted to be a part of the movie.

His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama? The Movie? Claude Challe? The six degrees of separation? The rose petals Wou! So much for one only dinner

Thank you so much Dri! ( Adriana)

Joelle’s picks:

The Couture Designer :

Zineb Joundy : Casablanca +212 63050627 -Paris: +336-86111508-Delhi +91 9818070212

Marrakech has been the key commerce center since caravan traders set up camp here in the first millennium.

To outwit the merchants in the Medina’s famous souks, you’ll need a good sense of direction and razor-sharp bargaining powers! I went everywhere during these ten days and I have organized for you a small menu of my personal shopping delights. Enjoy!

Babouches

Most local crafts are still executed in the tiny workshops, many of which are to be found by walking north from place Jemaa el Fna p to Souk Marine. Marrakech is the capital of Morroco’s maroquinerie (leather-working industry),and the most common exponent of the craft is the Babouche. The perky leather slippers are available all over the souqs, and a European fashion designers have incorporated them into their collections,local artisans have responded accordingly. Styles range from the classic pointy toe in canary yellow to the feminine styles adorned with tassels,sequins and etching work. A 100-150 dirahms, you can afford to buy several, which is recommended as the soles don’t fare too well outdoors. Himmi 32-34 souk El Ghassoul Pres des Tenturiers- +212 024 390426

Akbar Delights

The boutique just near the Jemaa El Fna is a hit among le Jet, who pile in here to pick up their fine cotton pant, kaftan and scarf ensembles, fur trimmed bags and shawls, sequined slippers, antique skull caps and other riad- party garb. although most of the pieces are made in India, they encapsulate the local vibe better than a lot of home-grown equivalents. The owners are collectors of antique photographs of Moroccan king, many of which lines the walls of the boutique and showroom. place Bab Fteuh Medina +(212) 071 661307

Beldi

The minuscule, wood-lined shop, which is located just inside the Jemaa El Fna entrance to the souk, is unusual in that it actually has a front door. It’s where Marrakch socialites like to shop. Owned by a pair of brothers whose family is well established in the city’s rag trade, it’s European — style velvet jackets and trousers are certainly cut above the rest and impeccably finished linen pillowcases, cashmere blankets, fringed scarves very expensive but worthy! – 9-11 Soukiat Laksour, Bab Fleuh +212 024 44107

Mustafa Blaoui

This is the classiest, most beloved ‘Best of Morocco’ depot in town. It’s a warehouse of a place that’s crammed, racked, stacked and piled wit floor-to ceiling irresistible-lanterns, dishes, pots, bowls, vases, candlesticks, chandeliers, chests… If Mustafa does not have it, then you don’t need it. He supplies a lot of the furnishings for local riads, even people who don’t own a hotel will find it almost impossible to visit here and not fill a container lorry. Added of which Mustafa is an absolutely sweetheart,check the pictures on the gallery!- 142, Rue Bab Doukkala +(212) 024 385240

La Maison du Kaftan Marocain

It may have the unloved, rundown look of a vintage place but no, if you carefully explore and go to the hidden basement, it looks more like a hidden cavern of Ali Baba with the widest selection of Moroccan clothing for men, women and children in the souq, housed in a kitch, but today very trendy palace-like space. Stock range from pantalon turque (traditional trousers for men) beautiful velvet jackets that remind me the Carnival in Venice and most interesting magnificent Brocard vintage kaftans that go for 20,000dh. Scouts from international fashion houses often drop by to place orders for inspiration 65, rue Sidi el Yamami +(212) 024 441051

Alyed Gallery

Owner Ouzid Mustafa, has in my opinion of the greatest specialization of vintage Moroccan and Berber Jewelry , silver judaica and precious textiles. His small shop is easy to miss but if you go to Dar Charifa you will be able to find it easily I went absolutely crazy with everything.- 66,rue Moassine Fha Chidmi +(212) 024 442961

Khartit Mustaph

Antique dusty old place filled with elegant mother- of- pearl inlay crafts and furniture, boho-style leather fringed Berber handbags,hundreds of semiprecious beads and stones, Orientalist paintings and sculptures, silver jewelry…I was talking so many pictures that Kharit asked me if I really was a journalist! -3-Fhai Chidmi Rue Moissine Marrakech+ (212) 0 24 442578

Nour Bougie

Sublime colorful candles as a must to take in your suitcase for a memorable evening at your place. A little far, 30 minutes drive from Marrakech the trip is worth. This incredible factory only with women workers( was not able to photograph the work area this time, husbands get upset) is an example of good taste, elegance and charm. Different shapes, sizes and colors with encrusted islamic motifs of calligraphy and khamsas. Check the pictures!- 231,QI Sidi Ghanem +(212) 24 33 57 18 – www.nourbougie.com

I guess for now is enough! I must prepare myself for an evening in my honor tonight! See you all

“Who was it ? It was Matisse who said when I paint and I don’t have anymore blue I use red? — Charles Boccara

Viewing Morocco’s architecture can be frustrating as historic Arabic construction is, by nature, inward-looking and private; and, almost always hidden behind a high wall. Add to the fact that in Morocco mosques are closed to non-Muslims and you’ll see why much of the city’s architectonic eye candy is to be found in the details.

In one sense, the riad-phenomenon has been saving grace. Many of these homes were wreks before the boom. Not only did their renovation rekindle and the dying arts of stucco, mosaic and woodwork, it also means what the best city architecture can now be accessed for the price of a room or a meaI.

The new Moroccan style has been the subject of many a cofee-table book, and architects such as Stuart Church and Charles Boccara, and the designer Bill Willis have transformed ruins into stunning palaces,whose splendor greets you as soon as you cross their threshold down a dark Medina Alley.

Tunisian-born Charles Boccara,French of nationality, (he considers himself an’ Inhabitant of the Mediterranean’) and today most famous architect in Morocco kindly agrees to meet me at the one of his design signature hotel Les Deux Tours , earthen-red-villas in a lush of blossom-and palm filled garden in the very chic Palmeraie quarter. Among other restaurants and a theatre , the new Caravanserai hotel , located slightly out of town with a marvelous view ovr the Atlas Mountains from its roof terrace.

Together with Bill Willis he kicked off the whole moder-ideas-with Moroccan-materials philosophy that still underpins Marrakech style. He tells me in a lovely Aubergine (eggplant) color tadelak room next to a old Zelije tiling fireplace that he is appreciative of nostalgic ambiances and classical style because” with the passing of time the more we get older the more we have doubts about everything.”

Now maybe, I want o use one’s quality of being lazy… In my youth I used to be an inventor, designing windows in the shape of eyes, almonds, triangles, and I got tired- I realized that the color white was already given to me so I can add more.” He then surprises me with his poetic comparison:

“It’s like great music, that entrance hall , I did it on a capriccioso and like a great opera for example, the living room is a Moderato, Andante Moderato, and that large dining room you see at our left is Faust. And with all this I finally can get in piece with myself. When do something you must go until the end..for example the small Salon Indien a ” petit delire Indien”.

He speaks about mosaics, patios compares Moroccan ground plans to those French palaces points to a common vocabulary of arcades, domes,and arches. About Les Deux Tours? I ask, ” When you do a hotel you must create a story, and the story is about a great seigneur at the beginning of the century who naturally built a house in the middle of the desert gradually annexing rooms to please them.

Talking about friends, Hassan Kadiri a young developer originally from Casablanca, who came with me calls is telling me that if I wish to watch the sunset over the Palmeraie and tour for a few other small riads and be back home on time Shabbat candles ( It’s Friday) we should be leaving now.

I give a warm hug to Charles Boccara thank for his time and kind hospitality. He still has no idea why I had the desire to meet him (I don’t have an architectural magazine) but wishes with a smile the best of luck to all.

Sunset is marvelous, Palmeraie has been for long the city enclave of luxury and glorious isolation surrounded by date palms and mud-brick villages and part-time homes of Rotchild, Rockfeller, Patrick Guetrrand Hermes, Paul Getty Jr, Agnelli, Poniatovsky.The range of hight-luxe accomodation simply staggering. Houses in Berber style are flagships for the Four Seasons, Banyan Tree , Mandarin Oriental, groups to come who are all competing for a piece of this blissful land, all promising ‘ sanctuary of senses’ although the most city iconic five-star, La Mamounia, is not due to reopen until late 2008 undergoing extensive renovations.

Hassan tells me while I reflect about Marrakech future developments that we will soon be at the large townhouse riad El Fenn a few meters down a little derb close to Bab El Ksour back to the Medina.

The enchanting and almost secret house was originally built like a fortress, the ancient walls are over a metre thick, all sound of the bustling Medina is shut out, and as you enter the building you are immediately submerged by feeling of beauty and peace taking over your senses. Aware of their obligation to restore this previous old house of a great historical importance, the owners took care of details picking materials locally sourced and put in place by local wonderful craftsmen.

The rose gardens and the internal courtyards are my favorite together with the great large collection of incredible embroidered straw hats each of them different on the your own private small pool daybeds.

We have still time to check another interesting riad, among the 500 to 600 estimated number in Marrakech’s Medina. Riad Lotus Perle.

Hassan and Adriana watch with attention my reaction as soon as I open the heavy wood door.This riad posses a decadent vibe . It sans for its Deco touches-black and white is the order of the day, such as in the reception area-with Murano chandeliers, leather chesterfields, chinoiserie, animal skins and vintage photography completing the Sheik-in-New York-feel. While passing the Jaqueline Kennedy suite, you can spend some time miling on the roof on the jacuzzi contemplating the vie of the Bab Doukala mosque over a drink.

At last, one of my favorite places, Dar Cherifa. Sometimes you ust need a book and a good lie down.This splendid Literary Cafe and art gallery is set on a 16 th-century ryad,where every detail has been stripped back and allowed to breath. Sit on cushions on the floor and order a medley of light Moroccan salads-candied tomatoes,slices of courgette marinated in olive oil and lemon juice. A few selection of Moroccan books on art over a mint tea.

The owner of Dar Charifa is Abdelatif Ben Abdellah, a cultural doyen who holds literary readings and exhibitions here.I heard somewhere you can tip the waitress well,while you ask for the date of his next soiree.

Now if you’ll excuse me candle lighting is waiting for me!

Shabbat Shalom

Joelle’s Tips:

The Architect: Boccara Charles av. Yacoub el Mansour, villa Nous deux Р40000 Marrakech T̩l. : 024 43 00 30 Fax : 024 43 60 66 Email : archiboc@menara.ma

The Library: Dar Charifa- 8 Derb Chorfa Lakbir (off Rue Mouassine) Medina Marrakesh Morocco 40000/ Tel: 212 2 442 6463

Gardens and Sites: Jardins Majorelle – Saadian Tombs -Ben Yussef Medersa

Riads and Hotels: Riad El Fenn – Riad Lotus Perle – Caravan Serai – Les Deux Tours - La Sultana

The Developer: Siddharta Hassan Kadiri 105.Bd Rahal El Meskini, Casablanca, Tel + 212 22 31 25 00/ fax + 212 22 31 22 59

Uncontained, disorderly, untained by grandeur or pomp the ambience of the Jemaa El Fna the city’s thronging market square, provides what must be one of the greatest shows on earth.

The protagonists who are appreciated as much by locals as visitors, are a melange of merchants, tooth-pullers, snake-charmers, fortune and story tellers, soothsayers and witch doctors, all vying for attention with loud cries and songs totally at odds with the place name which roughly translates as ‘Assembly of the Dead.’

At the center of this nerve center of Marrakech, is the food market, where smoke from cauldrons and grills and light from dozens of kerosene lanterns creates an eerie haze under the desert sky.Gnaouas, desendants of Sudanese Slaves, provide the music soundtrack, with metal castanets, lutes and drums. This is also one of the few places where you’ll see Marrakechis dining out en masse.

Also known as ‘La Place ‘, Jemaa El Fna is as old as Marrakech itself. The urban clearing, as irregular in shape as an accident of nature ,thronged day and night by this carnival of local life it was layed out as a parade ground by Almoravids in front of their royal fortress (Dar El Hajar). When the succeeding Almohads built a new palace to the South, the open ground passed to the public and became what it remains today- a place for gathering, trading, entertaining and even occasional riots.

A part from a gypsy in a previous lives I have been a white magic healer and an alchemist assistant. There were no doubts about my excitement around these witches, medicinal herbs, mystical powders , Berber doctors (some of them very handsome by the way, ) whose teachings came straight from the desert. I would not know if Amber, feathers or Ostrich eggs could be used in my personal case for decorative purposes or for honest and powerful healing techniques.

Freshly squeezed orange juice, (the sweetest I have ever tasted), all kind of nuts and confectionery together with the mysticism of a bustle filled with veiled Moroccan women speaking French and holding my hands for both Mehndi, palm reading and fortune telling completely spin my head around.

Life in this arena of multifaceted smells and colors at sunset reaches its peak. If Morocco is in your near plan I strongly suggest you join this fray armed of course with a lot of change, or if you wish to watch the buzz from the sidelines step on quiet terrace cafe, such as Cafe Glacier. (024 422 3225)

As the air fills with smoke from grilling meat and the aroma of spices, the square fills with storytellers while I try in vain to explain to a Berber ‘doctor ‘ that if I burn pure trunks of Sandalwood on charcoal in my Fifth Avenue New York apartment a line of 10 Firemen trucks, fire alarms and the police will take me straight to jail and the evil eye ’s plan then will be successful over me!

Jemaa El Fna has been recognised by UNESCO as part of mankind’s cultural heritage and its preservation is now secured.

Hamdallah!

Today listen to:

The phenomenon of Marrakech as a über-fashionable destination has not so far not resulted in very much to offer in terms of nightlife.

Good sound and creative music takes place in restaurants, cigar bars, lounges, cafes and exotic hotels. Fortunately it was never a problem picking the place where I’d spend the evenings after long days of shopping, being a tourist for a few hours or getting pampered. Here are some suggestions in the case you decide to go.

Like everywhere else there is always a tight connection, between the people you meet at night in Paris, Rio, Istambul, Beirut or Tel Aviv. Born in Tunisia, Marcel Chich owner and founder of one of the most prestigious establishments in the chic neighborhood of Gueliz, Le Comptoir Darna is one of them.

“Le Juif le Plus Arabe ” .The most Arab of all Jews as he defines himself, moved to the red city twelve years ago with the intention of pursuing his “Fantasme Orientale ” thus creating something different, something to add to his Paris lifestyle he felt at the time was not complete anymore.

Friend of Claude Challe another Tunisian Jew and today most acclaimed artist, musicians, dj and creator of the worldwide Buddha Bar concept, Marcel Chich was blessed enough to receive from Claude the Khamsa compilation assembled with his grand orchestra, available to buy on their website and of which everyday I’ll propose a new song during this weeks posts.

In the Old Orient, comptoirs or counters where organizations based on exchanging spices, exotic flavors, and were serving as an intermediary between suppliers and customers.

Sitting at this moment at Le Comptoir Darna , in the company of the attentive-eyed to detail Marcel,its walls resplendent with black and red tadlekt I am listening to an Arabic orchestra churning out Egyptian and Lebanese classics, most of which I remember vaguely, my grandfather used to sing in Beirut .I feel strange somehow at home even if I have never been in any of those countries before.

A climax in the atmosphere takes place with the arrival of several young and sexy belly dancers dressed up only with what’s necessary descending a slinky grand staircase littered with pink rose petals. Some older ones and more experienced carry candlesticks on large trays in their heads dancing the way off in the manner of legitimate Bahianas during Carnival times in Brazil. So strange…

Sipping my Champagne together with a small chocolate souffle decorated with rose petals, I can’t help associate this signature exchange between Marcel’s unconscious Jewish gypsiness in his stories about a ring with a star of David lost in a royal bathroom in Istambul and the surrounding Caravanserai of cultural and ethnic diversity. A blending mix of good looking locals, young European models, wide-eyed tourists, sharper expats all clapping hands in the rythms of this nowhere-else Middle Eastern fabulous-ness.

My dinners were hosted by charming people, romantic places such as the restaurant Villa-Rosa that whose refined and calm atmosphere of luxurious red velvet furniture and candlelight evoking Napoleon III style ambiance of Paris hotel Costes. The chef proposes Italian as well as a combination of new French cuisine with Arabic specialities inside magnificent lounges or in the patio combining the pleasant ambiance of a Moroccan ryad.

Noureddine Fakkir one of the partners and key persona of Marrakesh night life and the handsome public relation Youssef Gourad (whose fault is not his to be so charming!) are in charge of several other hype places like the the Brasserie Orientale Le Tanjia for a Pizza or a vegetarian Couscous in an elegant greys 1940 colonial decor, the traditional Marrakshi , richely decorated with Zelij tiling one of my favorite restaurants perfect for sipping a Moroccan Mint tea at sunset over the magical and hectic Jemaa el Fna .

Young, Western fashion conscious,and hype is their crowd ; from night to the next morning especially when it comes in the middle of the sublime Palmeraie desert at Nikki Beach to listen to amazing arabesque electro-beats with believe it or not the best sushi in the area.

Bo-zin with its slogan ” drinking and fooding ” the lounge area overlooks a spectacular garden of bamboo,palm trees,cactus ,papyrus and other desert vegetation, while inside deals are done on sofas in the low-lit nooks.

Bo-Zin is located a good 15 minute ride out of town,so take advantage of the pollution-free sky and indulge in some serious stargazing…. Tomorrow after all, is another new day.

Today listen to:

Joelle’s Tips:

The Restaurants-Lounges:

Le Comptoir Darna -Villa-Rosa – Bo-zin – Le Tanjia – Le Marrakshi – Nikki Beach

“Emancipate our women, making them leave at home ”

Prof Zoubida Charrouf

After the enriching experience at the Hammam in Marrakech, I understood the importance given over centuries to the skin restorative and various therapeutic properties of the Argan oil in Morocco and very soon thanks to the local efforts made in the country, hopefully worldwide.

This month in New York, Kiehl’s a respected old-world apothecary in the East Village for over 150 years representing a blend of cosmetic, pharmaceutical, herbal, and medicinal knowledge developed through the generations also launched for the first time their Superbly Restorative Argan Skin Preparation.

The fairly-traded ingredient is carefully cultivated in the Women’s Targanine Cooperative. In return for planting, harvesting of the trees, the women’s communities benefit from an improved socio-economic situation and preservation of their environment and culture. Since I am in the country I decide to contact with the help of Charlotte Adjchavanich who handles Kiehl’s Global communications Prof Zoubida Charrouf of the Faculty of Science Chemistry department in Rabat.

Professor Charrouf’s findings about the substance being packed with vitamin E and unsaturated fatty acids that can lower cholesterol, reduce wrinkles and juvenile acne, and speed healing of abrasions the interest in the Argan tree was renewed as did the decision by UNESCO in the late 1990s to declare the endangered Argan forest area a biosphere reserve.

When I called this extremely busy woman, today an example and inspiration for hundreds of Moroccan women, she thankfully saved some of her precious time to prepare everything I needed for my visit at the Cooperative , 70 kmts from Agadir. Professor Zoubida ensured herself that the women, very friendly and welcoming, would prepare especially for my visit both types of the Argan oil extraction: The traditional and the improved .

She then puts in charge one of her assistants a young and very smart Amazigh woman called Hnia to take care of me. Here we are, Hnia, myself, Abul Salam the vintage Mercedes driver and my poor friend Adriana who almost died of heat, tiredness,probably boredom too until we approached a vendor in a local Souq near the main city on the Middle Atlas Mountains who sold her three embroidered goat skin baskets with colorful wool to be used for flower containers in her ryad.

Hnia pickes us near Agadir after we had the first three hours drive. While looking at the beautiful landscape on the road Hnia enthusiastically tells me the stories of the women and details about the cooperative. At the beginning the Argan Oil was produced in their homes while taking care of children, cattle, and household but unfortunately they couldn’t deliver a high-end product; their homemade oil was often packaged in leftover plastic bottles and sold on the side of the road or in local souqs, or marketplaces.

Meanwhile, farmers collected all the Argan stones available, and then throttled the trees to get more fruit. The trees drooped; the local economy remained relatively stagnant. Professor Charrouf decided to found cooperatives to tackle the problems head on – and start employing the disenfranchised Amazigh women who had discovered Argan oil’s benefits to begin with.

We finally arrive. A lot of dust around us but the air of the mountain is wonderful, I am exited to meet other women at work in such a different environment. The cooperatives now employ approximately 800 women full and part-time, many of them poor, widowed or divorced, and all of them Amazigh.

I am introduced to the principal of them. She welcomes me warmly and takes us to the work place. A group o 20 or so are working at cracking the stones; for that, Hnia tells me, they are paid an average of $100 a month and receive a share in the coperative’s profits. In contrast, a woman making Argan oil on her own earns no more than $20 or $30 monthly. Also, Amazigh women don’t traditionally sell goods themselves,
so without the co-op they’re dependent on male relatives to sell the oil and bring back all the money earned.

To ensure the quality of the product, Charrouf replaced much of the traditional extraction methods with a mechanized process that extended the oil’s shelf life from six months to two years. Women still crack the stones, because no machine can match their dexterity. I tried myself a few times but was very unfortunate and got slightly hurt. They all laughed.

On the conservation front, each of Charrouf’s workers plants 10 new Argan trees a year. Most significantly, as the region’s economic growth is increasingly tied to the Argan, villagers have become much more reluctant to let their goats graze in the trees.

Business is booming. In addition, the Amal cooperative in Tamanar received the International Slow Food Award for biodiversity in 2001. Drawn by increasing press coverage, 100 tourists descend upon the Amal cooperative each day, buying edible oil and cosmetics products. In reponse to increases demand Charrouf recently grouped the cooperatives under one umbrella organization in order to standardize their operation and accounting systems and to expand their bargaining power. This organization is called GEI TARGANINE and it has been created since october 2003.

I am ready to drive back, I learned about all the process, Adriana stuck in her mouth the inviting toasted nuts without listening to the women warnings,she frowned, they all laughed once more a sense of solidarity and mutual admiration took place. I now kiss proudly Hnia, buy a few bottles of Argan oil, send my blessing to Zoubida the tenacious professor and will soon embrace the sensuality of an bath ritual… most important with the women of this comunity empowered my conscience is just in heaven!

Today listen to :Astahel

Joelle’s Tips:

The product: Kiehl’s Superbly Restorative Argan Skin Preparation.

Prof Zoubida Charrouf
Département de Chimie
Faculté des Sciences, Université Mohammed V
Avenue Ibn Batouta, Rabat
Tel : 212 61 37 21 42
Email : zcharrouf@menara.ma ; zcharrouf@yahoo.fr
Site web : www.association-ibnalbaytar.com

Moroccan women are adept at using nature’s bounty to beautify and care for every bit of the body. Use of such ingredients in their beauty regime brings them a feeling of well-being and of an undisputed natural glow.

The secrets of getting the best from specific plants in a beauty regime is an art that is whispered from mother to daughter down generations ensuring Moroccans continued beauty and health.

Moroccans of both sexes participate in joyful bathing rituals prior to celebrations dotting their lives. The dotting of my own life started with a text on my Blackeberry ” Find yourself at the Les Bains de Marrakech at 3. 15 and make sure you are free for the next three hours and a half!”

Near the mosque in a ryad-style hammam I have been washed, exfoliated and drained on candle-lights, submerged with rose petals in dripping bath waters aromatized with rose, orange flower and Amber essential oils. Enchanted by the sensuality of the music and jet-lagged I completely lost the the notion of time. But before leaving I made sure to be revealed every little secret so I could go and find everything in the Souq to bring back home. Here is how it goes:

Many simple objects are involved in the hammam ritual. In the first room where heat levels are barely higher than outside the hammam, I was lathered with black soap made from black olives. (I then brought some to my mother and sister who did not quite understand what that was).The ensuring thick,dark yet soft paste is appreciated for its calming and softening properties.

Afterwards a Kessa , a coarse glove was used to exfoliate my skin to perfection. The important to remember is to rinse and rinse again. Once all the impurities have been purged, white or green colored Ghassoul-a kind of clay-comes into play. Ghassoul comes in a powder form or in small bars. It needs to be blended with orange flower water or rose water to turn into a sweetly smelling and malleable paste. White Ghassoul was applied gently to my face, the green version with Henna on the body and my hair.

Habiba, tells me ” Ghassoul makes your skin super silky and soft, Henna however is the perfect plant Moroccan ladies use as they generally have very long , glossy and thick hair.It regulates sebum production and smoothens down scales and split ends so that the hair appears glossy. It also adds volume to fine hair.

The next step is to slip on some wooden clogs and enter the third and last room which is heated to 50. C. My time here I must tell you was a little brief as it was the first time. I they quickly sprinted into a cold shower to cool down. Finally the best yet was to come: A massage with either Argan Oil or ” Green OiI” only found in Morocco.

I was now ready for the looks, after all Adriana was giving a dinner reception in my honor so I really wanted to make an effort in having that enchanting and mysterious oriental look. I rung my eyes with Khol eyeliner with an applicator called a mirwed . Then I used a swak, a dried strip of tee bark that can be obtained from attarines (herbalists) which helps to whitenteeth, protect the gums and maintain sweet smelling breath. I next applied acker to my lips: 100% natural, this lip treatment is sold in a little earthenware pot. Apply with damp fingers for guaranteed impact. See the picture below tel me what you think.

This excursion into the world of well-being and beauty ia also a discovery of one of the most beautiful countries like Morocco. Taking time out to pamper yourself in this ‘ancestral spa’ way is like sipping from the fountain of youth.

Today listen to:Hanina Jasmon Mix

Joelle’s Tips:

The Arttarines or Herbalists:

Herobriste La Baraka: Medical plants, spices,essential oils, Natural creames and cosmetics, Argan oil, natural pigments- 118 face fontaine moissine Marrakech- tel +212-44 427471-e-mail: contat@immobilier-herboristelabaraka.com

Herboristerie Bendriss: Ghassoul, Khol, Mirwed, Swak, Henna- 21-22 Kissariat El Jadida Hay Salam Mellah Marrakech -tel + 212 79 846038

The Spas and Hammams: Les Bains de Marrakech – La Sultana Spa-

She is Brazilian, the color of her eyes, aquamarine and her astrological sign, like mine, an intensive double Scorpio. The Hippie-chic, Boho, Euro-gypsy-glam-girl, Adriana Bittencourt is my friend.

Renowned internationally as a successful, trendy and fashion accessories designer, she had formerly been selling her designs out of a charming boutique in the heart of Sao Paulo. The shop is filled with custom jewelry, good luck charms, Brazilian amulets (reflecting her country culture), Texan Cowboy hats, Djellabas, Kaftans beach and Yaght-wear cover ups.

Her limited series wrist watches, sandals, cell phone accessories and jewelery are custom designed for Brazilian companies like, Guerreiro and Nokia they enhance the sparkle of Jet-setters worldwide especially on the Saint-Tropez-Ibiza-Saint Barth-Capri-London and Paris circuits.

With archetypes like Talitha Guetty, the muse of Yves Saint Laurent during the 60s, Adriana a few years ago confided me she had a dream: Like Talitha she wished to have a living role in the “Magic, Red City of Marrakech and among others, own her personal Petit Palais that today she calls Ryad Nour meaning light.

Talitha had a style she made her own, tossing together Yves Saint Laurent, Palestinian wedding dresses, Ossie Clark, Valentino couture, Balinese wraps, little white leather boots and piles of dramatic Kenneth Jay Lane fake jewelry with a bohemian aplomb that Kate Moss might envy and Diana Vreeland think is terrific.

And, unconsciously, like some fascinating women at the turn of the century, icons that Andriana in the mist of her youth probably doesn’t know yet, Misia Sert in Paris, the baroness Karen Von Blixen in Africa, and princess Gayatri Devi, the Maharani in India, she chooses to pick her part-time destiny in the Marrakech Medina renouncing to her friends, her family, a comfortable life in Sao Paulo, as well as her faith of origin; she has now converted devotedly to Islam.

I am now in her newly renovated terrace with the help of a long time Brazilian friend of mine and partner the interior designer Beto Galvez. We are sunbathing overlooking Jean Paul Gaultier roofs drinking fresh lemonade with mint, honey and ginger, a recipe I brought a few years ago from Rishikesh in the foot of the Hymalayas. Latifa her cook is discussing with her why the Moroccan eggplant appetizers do not taste as the other Latifa’s a cook temporarily borrowed from a Casablanca entrepreneur a friend and today a mentor Adriana met in Saint Tropez .

I try to concentrate on Latifa’s explanation with attention but I can’t help being overwhelmed by the mixture of smells and sounds of Juoao Gilberto’s Bossa Nova, Eagles Hotel California, Rolling Stones Angie and the 12 o clock call for the salat prayers coming from all the mosques in each and every roof speaker adjacent to our ryad.

While she learns Arabic and belly dance, I beg her to understand not to necessarily expects from her servants the same treatment she gets from her Brazilian nanny of 20 or more years. I know for sure I am the one loosing the battle.

Everywhere next to Adriana these days, in the Souqs with suppliers, at the Arab Baths for royal treats or at her favorite restaurant the traditional Dar Moha and former residence of fashion designer Pierre Balmain in the 70’s or Villarosa alone or in company of royal family acquaintances, night scene key personas, French and Brazilians guests in the world of fashion, design and entertainment, we were treated with respect and devoted hospitality surrounded by Hassans, Salims, Abdallahs, Youssis, Noureddines, Muhammads, Camils, Simon Hameds, Nassers and plenty of Abdul Salams.

I am tired from the intensity of the day, I walk my way to the princess green room, a tone carefully picked by 80 years old interior designer Bill Willis the undisputed maestro of grand Arab-chic homes of part-time Marrakchis like Yves Saint Laurent and Bernard-Henri Lévy. Bill no longer is professionally active but was wittily charmed by Adriana with a smile and a Brazilian Figa amulet. Several pillows with small elephants from India, are neatly organized on my bed.

Finally sitting on a charming Syrian mother pearl inlaid chair Adriana tells me she decided to is give herself a Sabbatical year where she’ll evaluate the possibilities of partnerships in the real estate business spending time in the creation of her Nour collection consisting on expensive and luxurious Kaftans, home fragrances, embroidered beach bags and the lifestyle of being one of the most talked hostess in the mystery of the Red Clay city.

I look at her, smile, and realize that only a few months in Marrakech, during her sabbatical year, my dear friend and ‘little sister’ Adriana Bittencourt already reigns supreme.

Today listen to the song :Cest la Vie

Joelle on Adrian’s Tips:

The Interior Designers Beto Galvez e Nórea De Vitto / São Paulo
Tel: + 55 (11) 3085-5035 /(11) 3062-1913/ E- mail: contato@bninteriores.com.br

The Restaurants: Dar Moha 81,rue Dar El Bacha Medina, Marrakech

Reservations:+ 212 24 38 62 64 -E-mail: darmoha.ma

Villa Rosa Restaurant
Reservations: +212 24 44 96 35- Email: villarosamarrakech@yahoo.fr