New York JKF Airport Royal Air Maroc check-in:

A large group of African women dressed in multicolored long Kaftans make me realize that I unfortunately packed the wrong clothes. My summer wardrobe consists of tiny Abercombie & Fitch shorts, mini skirts, t-shirts and tank tops; It’s the first time in my life that something like this has happened. I’ve got that strange feeling that I’m going to learn something different this trip.

“Manicure Miss?” I have time. At a spa close to my gate, I pick out a bright orange nail polish. I’ve never used this color before. My feet are in someone’s hands, and with my eyes closed, I am finally starting to dream about a distant and unknown mosque… Suddenly I hear an announcement over a loudspeaker… several times, and it’s not a Salat… It’s my name they are calling, my last call, I am apparently late for my flight and my nails are still not dry, the whole plane heading to Casablanca is waiting for my pedicure to dry.

I decide to run barefoot with the resort Marc Jacobs in my hand. As I enter the aircraft, all passengers clap their hands very loud while the tanned and tall flight attendant whispers in my ear a little intrigued “Why a manicure? You are flying to Morocco where the best Mehndi is available, silly of you, don’t you think?”

I’ve had thoughts only the next day when the plane landed. The red dust of the landscape mixed with the evident Sub-Saharan heat made me realize only one thing: The color of the nail polish… that at least, I got right.

I am a staying at a friend’s ryad, inside the South Medina, (Arabic for city) in the Zitoun El-Jedid (the Neighborhood of Olives). I’m near the Mellah, the historically Jewish quarter, the oldest section of Marrakech and the past domain of Sultans and their retinues . Hassan dressed in an long orange cotton a djellaba red Fez hat (my grandfather used to wear one) welcomes me holding a card with my name at the entrance of the Medina. “Salam Aleki, Madame Joelle”.

Cars are not allowed, so Hassan with my wheeled luggage leads me to a confluence of several salmon-pink ancient crenelated walls alleys full of pedestrians, bicycles, scooters, donkey carts, motorbikes, cats, children playing soccer in the manner of Brazilians, small antique shops, carpets dealers, and lots, lots of men calling me Gazelle.

At the end of a small alley, a small wooden door opens in front of me. The door has two brass knobs in the shape of Khamsah : one on top for men, the other, lower, for women. No need to knock….

Hassan disappears with my suitcase, Queen Nour blue eyes are always the same, she’s there waiting for me and she smiles.

Today listen to: kissat Hob

“…E mentre sono qui, se potessi controllare il tempo, se potessi dare una direzione al vento …Prova con un mazzo di rose ”

“… And while I am here, I if could control time, if I could give a direction to the wind… Try with a bunch of roses ” – Pino Daniele – Scirocco D Africa

Monte Solaro is the highest part of Capri, towering 589 meters above sea level, and boasting a 360° panorama of the island of Capri. It’s my last day at the Capri Palace Spa, I decide to have a “quick visit” at nearby mountain and come back to the hotel, as I have the Measurement of energy expenditure still attached to my arm and I am still a little tired.

As soon as I pay for my ticket, I realize before I have any time to change my mind that I am about to be seated into an individual chair lift where an old Italian man tells me- “Non aver Paura” (Don’t be scared) and only after I am already sitting and aloft I answer : “Ho Paura” (I am scared). I’m on my way to the top of this famous Italian mountain.

I realize that despite being the courageous world traveler that I am, I have always been afraid of heights.

My camera quickly finds the safest place in my pocket. This is the reason why you will not see pretty pictures of the marvelous landscape at my back. The only thing I can think of at this moment, is to try to look up because this is what you are supposed to do in life.

Suddenly, I become a philosopher, a spiritualist, an analyst, a Bacardi addict, a Zen Master and even Mohamed, personifying whoever I need to be, in order to survive this moment and arrive safely at the top of this mountain Belvedere.

The biometric device on my arm must certainly be registering some extra heart beats from my poor heart which is remembering against it’s will childhood traumas of abandonment, fears of being dropped dead on the floor by my mother, being hurt and abused by humans that I have loved and trusted, the obscure financial world crises with a consequence of monetary uncertainty due to possible lack of sponsorship for my review.

I suddenly visualize in the bushes, myself constrained doing nothing better than eat junk food gaining all the extra weight I proudly lost at the Spa and look horrible in front of a disapproving mirror facing a useless human being.

After 12 minutes that felt like 12 hours (or a little more) I have finally arrived. I rush to the Canzone del Cielo bar and drink a glass of Aqua Minerale. The bar is part of a small restaurant built in the fifties at the ruins of the Fortino di Bruto (Brutus’ small fort) which itself was built at the beginning of the 18th century during a period of battles between the English and the French.

I finally catch my breath, my mind pauses for a while and the battles of my own heart lift a temporary white flag. Distracted by the beauty of the silent and imposing landscape In the distance I can identify the mountains of Calabria, the Pennine Alps, the Amalfi coast, the Sorrentine peninsula, the Gulf of Naples, and the islands of Procida and Ischia.

Monte Solaro is also called âAcchiappanuvole (cloud catcher) after the thick blanket of fog that forms around the summit, especially at dawn, when the thermal difference between the sea and the rock is accentuated.

During the night as the temperature drops, the warmer, damper sea air condenses in a dense mist on the ground.Where its path is obstructed, the vapors rise upwards generating a characteristic crown of clouds. This phenomenon also occurs in the evening, especially in the Autumn.

The wind clears away parts of cloud, randomly revealing various segments of the beautiful island landscape below. And like in a miracle, the clouds of my thoughts in my mind are also caught allowing me to breathe safely a relieving sensation of being suspended floating in a welcoming void completely free from past, present and future ghosts as at this moment there none around.

The descent is much, much easier, and with my new found courage, I manage to catch a few photographic shoots with my camera of what I probably missed on the ride up .

Flying back home from Napoli to New York, especially following the wonderful enriching detoxicating experience in Capri Hotel & Spa, I will have time to meditate about my life and recall the Mount Solaro “episode” that apparently balanced so much my unconscious stability.

But in the strenuous flight, we are held hostage by wind turbulence, falling oxygen masks, children throwing up everywhere, my silent vows with repetitious donations to religious Jewish charities in order to arrive home alive. All those unpleasant events are due to the imminent hurricanes in the region and who knows what other universal or personal premonitions of the actual social instability and financial world crash. During the repeated course of events, I decide to take action and control my own fears and life anxieties as soon as I step on American soil.

It’s a bright blue sky and sunny day in Manhattan. After two days sleep, I am ready and buy myself a ticket to the Rockfeller Center Plaza tower :  The “On Top Of The Rock Observatory” opended two years ago and is sponsored by Swarovski Crystal. The girl that sells my ticket to the high-speed elevator asks me, “excuse me miss… what a nice perfume you are using… where is it from? ” Nervously I answer, ” In Anacapri, not here. I am sorry!” She then insists, oblivious to the long line of impatient tourists behind me wanting to climb to the top of the world. “Can I buy it in New York? Not even online?”

I suddenly realize, Americans, especially New Yorker,s have access to everything they desire all at once!  With the globalized Internet, market consumer competition, new world-wide communication technologies and sustainable energy know-how, anyone can reach to the next level and obtain what is desired.

It’s just about asking for it and finding the passion in what’s is being done, created, invented, reaching slowly step by step into the next level and higher goals.

“Can I have your email address? Yes, of course, you can buy it on-line. Check out my next newsletter, “Capri Olympus ” and you’ll find what you are looking for in a small shop that is near a Mountain called Solaro, and they have an email address, and by the way tell them I said hello! ” – I answer to the smiley lady who will not stop thanking me for the simple information I provided.

The high-speed elevator to the sky took exactly one minute to ascend 70 floors, and I felt safe. Overlooking the crystal-clear breath taking 360 degree view of New York City from the heart of Midtown Manhattan, is something you must do before you die. I then imagine how John D. Rockefellerâ’ s vision for his center never wavered at the time where the country was facing economic catastrophe and the world was between two wars.

The Rockefeller Center and the observation deck were his and the thousands of laborers that build the buildings including Rockefeller Plaza, legacy proudly offered as a gift to Manhattan by opening the deck s doors for the world to see Manhattan the way he imagined it – a place for locals and visitors to marvel at the city he loved.

Experiencing with beatitude the gentle breeze over my thoughts my mind now like in a flying carpet reaches the Anacapri people who like Rockerfeller taught me examples of courage, soul searching, hard work values and faith in almost impossible visions, always respecting their legacy and historical roots.

Even during these tormented times, life goes on. New and better solutions will be proactively created and this my friends is all that is needed to reach to what I like to call, the top of the world!

Have a safe journey!

‘ My home shall be open for the sun and the wind and the voices of the sea – like a Greek temple – and light, light, light everywhere!’

Axel Munthe

During my stay at the Capri Palace hotel spa I had my afternoon free. I did not feel to exercise at the gym with such incredible and beautiful sites to visit.

I decided to spend the afternoon and take a walk at the magnificent Villa San Michele near the hotel a few meters from Piazza Vittoria. I walk through the end of the characteristic shopping street to finally enjoying the breathtaking cliff edge views over Capri.

Villa San Michele is a Swedish cultural institute on the island of Capri, comprised of a museum house and gardens, accommodation for Swedish citizens engaged in cultural studies or research, and a nature reserve on the Barbarossa mountain for the protection of migrating birds and the preservation of Mediterranean flora.

Founded by Axel Munthe when he was still a young physician and decided to make his dreams, ambitions and ideas a reality by creating a home in Anacapri, a home soon to become famous throughout the world thanks to the success of his book, “The Story of San Michele” the most translated book after the bible..

Although he was a doctor by profession, it was for his work as a writer that Munthe became famous . ” The Story of San Michele” is regarded as Munthe’s life-work. It was the book he spent most time writing, and it has the story of his life, and has the title implies, of his home. He gained recognition as a man of art and culture, and as a philanthropist who nurtured a great love of animals.

Despite the fact that Munthe was born in Sweden and died here at the age of 92, he spent most of his life abroad. The floods of visitors to his museum-home and the fact that his book, “The Story of San Michele”, can be read in no less than 45 languages testify to the writer’s global appeal.

With the exception of a few sporadic absences, Munthe lived on Capri for more than 56 years. His interest for the island in the Bay of Naples coincided with the growing popularity of Capri as a preferred destination for the rich and famous from all over the world.

Munthe shared his love of music, animals, and nature with the Swedish queen, Victoria, who spent long periods of her life on Capri for health reasons.

Axel Munthe’s concern for the birds on the island, which were shot in disastrous numbers, led him to acquire the rights to the Barbarossa Mountain in order to create a sanctuary for migrating birds. Axel Munthe claimed that, on the island of Capri, ornithologists were treated to a continual symphony of bird song.

Together with the queen, Munthe arranged evening concerts with the Monarch herself playing the piano. Munthe had a splendid baritone voice, as well as a certain talent for both violin and piano.

The architecture is there to emphasize the magnificence of the landscape, at the same time forming a worthy framework for the works of art. In this respect the park plays an important role. For example, the statues overgrown with ivy and the mossy marble pieces scattered around the garden are characteristic. The number of objects in marble, stone, mosaic, and terracotta total around 655.

There are around 530 in wood, metal, ceramics and textiles. The collection can be said to be divided into several main themes, such as nature and animal images, as well as death and dying. But they are in no way exhibited programmatically. Rather they seem to consist of randomly placed pieces, of widely differing quality.

But regardless of the artistic quality of the individual object, what was important for Dr. Munthe was the message or personal memories it had for him. This was governed by the fact that the collections do not contain clusters of items acquired from other collections.

The museum’s inventory encompasses different periods from Antiquity to the early 20th Century. The classical antiquities are Roman, Egyptian, or Etruscan. Only a few of them originate from the imperial buildings that were on the site. These are remnants of buildings, ornamentation, and frescoes.

The origin of the objects varies. Dr. Munthe’s widespread contacts through-out Europe stretched from Scandinavia to Italy and from England as far as Russia.

The San Michele Foundation was founded on June 16, 1950 with the aim of administering the property donated by Axel Munthe for the Swedish state, as well as creating a guesthouse for scholarship recipients, and to promote cultural links between Sweden and Italy.

Villa San Michele on Capri in Italy is a magical place that must be experienced. While some speak of Feng Shui perfection, about a node for magnetic flows, and others about its enchanting beauty, it awakes a feeling of dread in some.

Undoubtedly, a unique and a living example of the dream that became reality. Perhaps a mad nightmare springing from a longing for beauty or an individual’s attempt to deal with his feelings of powerlessness. Was it megalomania and aesthetic madness or perhaps more a grown boy’s desire for love?

Peter Cottino ,director of Villa San Michele and Vice Consul of Sweden on Capri once wrote:

” Villa San Michele is a place for you who yearn, dream and search for answers. Welcome, you are in good company.”

Thank you Peter for Axel’s immortant hospitality, and regarding those answers, I found mine!

Joelle’s Tips:

The Source:

Capri .net :  Villa San Michele the home of Axel Muthe / the Story of San Michele : Emma Strindmar Norström, Department of Literature, Stockholm University / Peter Cottino director of Villa San Michele and Vice Consul of Sweden on Capri / Villa San Michele.eu

Villa San Michele:

Viale Axel Munthe
80071 Anacapri (Napoli) Ph. +39 081 8371401  / Fax +39 081 8373279
assistant@sanmichele.org

Yes, you’ve heard me! After almost three months in Italy I am still not ready to leave the country. I just received an email on my Blackberry that the coming winter there is going to be the coldest, longest and snowiest in the last 50 years… therefore (by now you know there is always a “therefore”) I decided to extend my Summer a little longer in a wonderful spot in Anacapri on the upper side of Island of Capri facing the  Sorrentine Peninsula where the ancient Greeks and later Roman emperors like Augustus and Tiberius liked to spent their time.

Marco, from the hotel where I am staying, frowns a bit because as usual I haven’t sent a previous notice about the time of my Aliscafo arrival from Napoli Mergellina.

I never know what time I’ll wake up when I am in Naples; and, I also know that Marco is so efficient that he will find a solution in the hectic port of Marina Grande which is filled with a dense traffic of suitcases and tourists on taxi lines.

It goes without saying, that the hotel limo with the driver has just left a minute ago and with no name such as Joelle Maslaton on the passenger list.

Holding my Panama hat, both my small and a large suitcase Marco makes a phone call on his mobile phone to a taxi driver (they rule the island) who is a dear friend of his from old times (he is obviously busy doing something else probably with another client). They discuss a little and the conversation ends with a smile  on Marco’s face. After 40 seconds the taxi arrives. Marco pays my taxi bill and instruct his friend with a simple question: “Guess where she is going?”

The Capri Palace Hotel & Spa in Anacapri is where I am going. As soon as I the driver opens the door, Caroline Courteau director of international guest relations, an impeccable Swiss young woman dressed in a classy blue suit and a red scarf around her neck, welcomes me with a large smile asking about my past trip in Tuscany.

I do not really feel like chatting too much as while we pass a stone wall covered by a silky cascade of falling water, I am profoundly touched by the immensity of the blue water of the swimming pool seen from below the surface through through small glass windows aligned on our right of the refreshing entrance hallway whose white linen curtains keep moving depending on the wind ’s orders.”

Did they get that from the Greeks? I wonder silently while Caroline animatedly carries on talking about something I have not quite heard like if that magnetic view of the pool in front of us did ever exist.

Looking around, the property of a curious and intimate grace looks far more of a private estate than a hotel. I realize that there are plenty of attractions to experience here. One of them, the most important, is the luxury of not letting anyone know that I am here so that I can finally get a well- deserved rest.

Believe it or not, after so much wine tasting, numerous gastronomical adventures, plane rides, staying up late and sleeping late, sun worship abuse and slight weight gain, I need to rejuvenate in a very quite almost hidden atmosphere where I hope to give my inner and outer self a new dimension that will prepare me mentally and physically to face the upcoming cold New York City winter season.

And like did Pablo Neruda, Axel Munthe, Graham Green, Gorky, Lenin, Friederich Krupp, Alberto Moravia, Oscar Wilde Marguerite Yourcenar ,Baron Fersen and Curzio Malaparte in this charming spot of the world which is the island of Capri, I will take advantage to finally rest quietly and who knows, get the inspiration for what is today my beloved passion and living reason, the art of expressing in words what I seem to understand about beauty, harmony and awareness in my own world, life and gifted spirit.

Giotto found the kindling, Fra Angelico, Brunelleschi and Donatello built the fire. Massaccio and Verrocchio struck the match, then Leonardo, Michelangelo, Botticelli and Raphael threw gasoline-the result was the greatest blaze of art the world has ever seen.

Dour and medieval from the outside, Florence is so steeped in the fabulous Renaissance that it’s easy to mistake that she’s actually rather a stylish little kitten. So go on get art and about.

Exquisitely walkable, Florence is divided nicely down the middle by the Arno River, the north side of which is home to most of the main monuments and museums;The tourist-swamped Ponte Vecchio, Uffizi and Centro Storico (World heritage Unesco) at dead center. Santa Maria Novella and label-land Via Tornabuoni to the west, the Duomo and San Marco to the north, and Santa Croce due east. The south side of the Arno, Oltrarno is the city Rive Gauche, packed with artisan shops and atmosphere.

Here are some tips in case you decide suddenly to visit; by the way, you’ll need to know only two Italian phrases: Ciao Belloccia/Belloccio (Hello Gorgeous) and Vien Via, andiamo (com’on let’s go)

The Restaurants

Enoteca Pinchiorri: Serious occasion dining, calls for 3 Michelin stars, a 150.000- bottles cellar,over 200 wines by the glass, abundant crystal and pale pink linen and tasting menu that starts st 225 Euros.Via Ghibbellina,87 r Santa Croce +39055242757

BSJ: Designed by Mr. Bonan (a darling of Ferragamo’s) the chic-temporary whites and dark woods, pictures window over the Arno , and tiny, two table terrace (perfect for moon spooning) make for a relaxed sophisticated eve. Lungarno Hotels-Borgo San Yacopo.62r Oltrarno/ +39 055 281661

Trattoria 4 Leoni :Teal and tiles and orange tablecloths inside,but snag a parasol table on the delightful piazza terrace and hoover the classical local treats, divertimento. Via de Vellutini,1r ( piazza della Passera) Oltrarno /+ 39 055 218562

Coffee, Cake & Chocolate

Rivoire: My favorite, this peach tablecloth and woven chair haven of artisan cacao and scandalous pastries serves probably the finest hot chocolate( cioccolata con panna ) in the world. Via Vacchereccia ,4r/ Piazza della Signoria /+39055 214 412

Dolci e dolcezze:  Assuming no responsibility for your figure after visiting. Disgracefully decadent, ultra-dense, fudgy choc cake, made with fine Swiss and Belgian ingredients and creamy Maremma butter, the best in town. Stay away at all cost! Piazza Beccaria, 8r/ Sant’ Ambrogio +39 055 234 5458

Ice-cream

Forget the fluorescent dollopy rubbish you see all over town,the fresh, additive-free, handmade ice-creams you will find at the emporium below, one of the finest in the city.

Badiani: Take the best Vanilla ice cream you’ve ever tasted octopule it and you have patented ‘Buonvalenti’ flavor. The taxi you need to taste it is well worth it…Viale dei Mille, 208 / +39 055578 682

Sites, Museums & Activities

Florence has no museum pass system. This pathetic state of affair can be seriously deleterious to your enjoyment unless you are organized. Two words, book ahead-you’ll reduce your queueing time considerably. Have your passport or driving license if you wish to hire an audio guide or best hire a personal one

! This city is literally one huge, glorious, easily walkable treasure chest. Here are the favorite, big, small, famed and lesser so. Have yourself your very own Renaissance but do not try to do everything at once after all it took more that 60 years for an artist to accomplish one single door.

The Uffizzi : Despite being poorly laid out and presented, with its parlously ‘organized’ entry queueing system,it’s nonetheless completely unmissable. Piazzale degli Uffizzi ,6/+39055 294883

Accademia:The David is one of those unique life moments, and while Michelangelo was the classic Add artist, even his unfinished work amazes-the prisoners emerging from their bloks of stone are haunting. The plaster gals in the Bartolini Gallery are destined to be forever wallflowers. Via Ricasoli,58 /+39055238609

Santa Croce: Giotto’s divine c 14 cth Bardi Chapel frescoes, the tombs of Michelangelo and Galileo, the soothing serenity of the Pazzi Chapel, and the Museo dell’Opera accessible from inside the complex in the Leather School. Piazza Santa Croce /+ 39 055 246 61 05

Bardini and Boboli Gardens: The Bardini’s manicured tiers provide prime peeps of the city and the ticket price include the entrance to the adjoining Boboli Gardens, the Pitti Palace costume museum and glitzy Medici treasury. Enter Bardini at Via dei Bardi /+39 055 265 1816

Shops I Like

Borsalino : 150 years of making hats and still way ahead for flawless panamas and smoking motorbike helmets. Via Porta Rossa, 40r Centro / +39 055 283 354.

Loretta Caponi:  ” Aristoctratic embroidery” Not bad right? The softest silk and cashmere classic lingerie, bed, bath, trousseau and even baptismal gowns. Piazza Antinori, 4r Centro + 39 055 213 668

The Mall: The outlet for Gucci, Pucci, Valentino, Armani, Hogan and other made in Italy brands Via Europa 8, Leccio/Reggello /+39 0558657775

Simone Abbarchi: Made to measure  man shirts using Italian silks Irish linens and Egyptian cotton from 100 Euros. Borgo San Frediano, 143r/ +39 055 210 552

The perfect Travel Guide: Luxe City Guides/ Florence form which I have been inspired and my precious source for this post.

Divertitevi! (have fun!)

It’s 6 o’clock in the morning. The sun is going to be very strong and hot today. Apparently, this is the best time to walk around the vineyards . The light is still dim and diffused, the ideal for taking nice pictures.

I rush into the Villa’s Giardino Aromatico (herb garden restaurant0  where I have a delicious breakfast made of local tarts and a fresh fruit punch. I am very exited, I have never done this in my life!

The Mangiacane estate, which overlooks Florence, just 10 kilometers away, spans 306 hectares. It is situated between San Casciano Val di Pesa and Greve in Chianti, at an altitude of 250/300 meters.

I am wearing my Havaianas from Brazil and a very light dress.  From afar I hear voices of men speaking in Arabic with a Moroccan accent. They are workers from the vineyards, I can see they are meticulously picking off the dry grape leaves.

Paolo Barzagli who is a typically handsome Italian man”except for the fair hair and the blue eyes is the director of Villa Mangiacane. He supervised all of its reconstruction with its complicated details (including a permit that took more than 7 years for altering the position of a window!). He talks to the workers in Italiann firmly but with a kindness of a true Renaissance man.

Offering to accompany me on the walk he explains to my New York mind that the diversity of soils and exposures, to the East and North East in San Casciano, and to the South in Greve, generate different micro climates and guarantee the production of wines with great complexity and personality.

He notices the intrigued look in my eyes and goes further inviting me for a special  dinner where all the Mangiacane wines, Grappas and rose wines will be experienced and tasted in the old cellar by candlelight.

But first I should know more about their production. I hardly listen to him, the strong light, the grapes, the Tuscan sky and my camera are far too busy to retain all information. We proceed deeper into the beautiful forest near the hilltop between the towns of Greve, Radda and Castellina forming a triangle in the very heart of Chianti.

Greve, Paolo explains, is named after the river that runs through; it is the chief town of the Chianti Classico wine zone and home to Chianti’s largest wine fair, held every September (he asks me if I’ll be in Florence during that period). We are both tired after the long walk, maybe the helicopter would have been a good choice.

We enter the new cellar that was extensively modernized in 2001. It’s impressive and extremely technological. I still have those images of men crushing the harvested grapes with their bare feet in large wood barrels (to music no less!)…but that era is over by far.

Paolo proudly tells me that Villa Mangiacane produces 80,000 bottles a year, mainly Chianti Classico D.o.c.g wines, but it also produces I.g.t  wines (typical geographical indication). While I am already imagining Tanja and Pierre upstairs in the Villa preparing everything for tonight’s dinner in the magnificent candlelight setting of the old cellar.

Paolo says they will be expecting me at eight o’clock and will join us a little later after coming back from Florence. After this spectacular day, I’ll relax for a while in the luxurious sauna at the Naduska Spa, get dressed and be fresh to experience the enchanting Tuscan wine tasting evening.

I am sleepy, a little dizzy.. but I insist in enumerating my winners:

• Riserva: Chianti Classico d.o.c.g. Variety:  95% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino.  Production area: San Casciano Val di Pesa, harvest method: hand picked,  Fermentation tanks: stainless steel vats, 29 temperature control, lenght of fermentaton 7-8 days, aging 18 months in French oak barriques ( 80 new) carefully crafted for a sophisticated taster.
• Aleah: Igt Toscana. Variety:  10% Merlot , San Casciano, Val di Pesa, 5000 plants/ha, hand picked, stainless vats, 26 temperature control, lenght of fermentation 10 days, bottle aging period 18 months in French oak barriques, natural purification.
• Villa Mangiacane: Chianti Classico D. o. c. g, Variety:  85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo, 5% Colorino, San Casciano , Val di Pesa, Greve in Chianti 5500 plants/ha in the old vineyard, hand picked, 27° C temperature Control 7-8 days fermentation aging: 12 months in French oak barriques (10% new) natural purification.

Grappas, Champagne,  Aqua San Pellegrino and Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva in freshly baked bread with rosemary where served all night during tastings. A wonderful zucchini salad was prepared by chef Boucuse.

Petter Hegre’s muse being harvested with the wine in a black and white picture and present in one of the wine labels stared at me  all evening almost as a kind of a ghost. Too bad she couldn’t  appreciate the  intensity of the “rubi-ness” of  of the young Shamiso rose against the light of a warm Tuscan sunset over the San Casciano hills. Going to sleep.

Joelle’s Tips:

Wine Tastings at Villa Mangiacane and Helicopter tours :

Arrive in style at local wine farms by helicopter for an exhilarating wine tour with a twist. Your helicopter ride will start from the doorsteps of Villa Mangiacane and your pilot will escort you Tuscany’s best known wine estates.  Villa Mangiacane will inform you on the top Estates to visit and will arrange private transfers and arrange bookings at these estates. info@ villamangiacane.it

Gift ideas:
Extravergin Olive Oil 0.500 lt Eu 12.00 per bt
Extravergin Olive Oil 0.250 lt Eu  9.00 per bt
GIFT box of 3 bottles (chianti classico, Riserva, Aleah) Eu 70.00
Contact info:
Martina Marini
Wine Sales Department
Villa Mangiacane
Via Faltignano, 4
50026 San Casciano VP – Florence
Tel.: +39 055 829 0123 – Fax.: +39 055 829 0358
Email: martina@mangiacane.it
Skype: martinamangiacane link.: www.mangiacane.com

They say every land holds a story in its heart. The story of Villa Mangiacane, a recent property of the Stein Hotels and Resorts, has waited five-hundred years to be told.

After so many years, I have now arrived here, and as a story teller myself, I am craving to hear it and write it for you. And in case you are a Renaissance dreamer, a connoisseur of high art, a celebrator of life, a lover of simple pleasures, a passion seeker or an incurable romanticâ sit back, and enjoy the ride!

This is the story of the ancient and powerful Machiavelli family, how they courted power and distilled it into their home, Villa Mangiacane.

Nestled in the heart of the famed wine-making region of Chianti Classico, (between Siena and Florence) the villa keeps its watchful eye over the haunting Arno Valley, framing within its arches the nearby Dome of the Cathedral and  Giotto s Bell Tower and holds within what is considered a tempestuous marriage of art and vine .

The 15th century villa set on this incomparable setting is imbued with history and culture. And for those who seek the opportunity to live within the character of an informal luxurious private home as an authentic Tuscan villa living where luxury, art and history blend together seamlessly, this is the right place to be!

It’s name (which in Italian means “the dog that eats” or, “eat the dog”), refers to the imposing stone dog sculptures atop its gate’s pillars were used to guard the villa. Set amongst 600 acres of lush vineyards, olive groves and forest, the magnificent 15th century villa bears the unmistakable mark of the Renaissance master Michelangelo.

The Villa was built by Cardinal Francesco Maria Macchiavelli (the uncle of Nicolo Machiavelli) thanks to the substantial commissions given him by Pope Urban VIII and was sold by the Machiavelli’s in 1645 to the aristocratic family of Marchesi Mazzei (who kept it until the mid-20th century). Villa Mangiacane’s fortune rose and fell over the course of the century.

The owner, Glynn Cohen, a successful entrepreneur from South Africa bought Villa Mangiacane in 2000 when it was practically in ruins, and he has brought it back to its former splendor with the help of the grand Florentine restoration expert, Gianclaudio Papasoglu Tacca and Cape Town based interior designer Ralph Krall.

On our arrival, a pretty young lady from South Africa and a very blond, Tanja, welcomes us with a large smile opening the door of a small and elegant room use for receiving guests.

We are kindly offered inviting fresh lemonade and handed a Capodimonte bowl filled with large green apples while the villa’s director Juan Miguel silently photocopies our passports in a small hidden back office.

Tanja sits with us on the comfortable vintage burgundy velvet upholstered couches giving us information about the region’s activities such as wine tasting, culinary courses with chef Massimo Bocus, a drive to Florence and Forte dei Marmi for the day (I spent my childhood Summers there),

bike rides through the olive groves or just an opportunity to chill-out by the magnificent pool and garden surrounded by beautiful sculptures from Zimbabue artists.

We are shown our room. Out of the spectacular  28 guest accommodations all different from each other, mine is the spacious but cozy suite number 25. It’s located in the annexed old loggia surrounding the vineyards and close to the main pool. It has a small private garden, with an indoor modern jacuzzi.

The jacuzzi outdoors looks more like a small antique bath when illuminated at night. Close by, waiting for me to sit, is a red cushioned Italian style reclining chair under a “Wi-Fi’ed ” pine tree. I can already see that it will be exactly what I need to find inspiration when writing on my blog about this small piece of paradise.

Mr. Cohen’s presence can be found all around the Villa especially in pictures of his family and friends—neatly organized in heavy photo albums and charming silver frames over a piano in one of the living rooms of the Villa which overlook the breathtaking view of Florence from the loggia. Parties are thrown here all the time, all excuses are good enough to celebrate the launch of a a new wine named after his daughter,  a wedding ceremony like the Rochild’s last year, or simply drinking around a table on the occasion of friend’s a birthday.

When asked about his dream come true, he answered that his idea has been to produce fine modern wines in a setting that could offer “old world” hospitality to its guests and friends. “The exceptional Tuscan landscape combining human artistry with nature’s beauty.”

I wonder if Michelangelo already knew!

Joelle’s Tips:

The Villa : Villa Mangiacane

Via Faltignano 4, San Casciano 50026 Firenze Italia
Tel No. +39 055 8290123 / Fax No. +39 055 8290358
E-mail : info@mangiacane.it

Activities at  Villa Mangiacane:

Wine Tasting

Cooking Lessons with Chef Massimo Bocus:

Classes will be held with Chef Massimo Bocus, a young, engaging and passionate culinary professional using Italian cuisine with an international twist. You will also learn specialty dishes that vary with the seasons and include: handcrafted Caserecce (pasta with broccoli), toasted pine nuts and black truffle, red tuna and porcini mushrooms sautéed on Tuscan bread soup or Irish beef loin  filled with foie grass served with a Tuscan Vin Santo reduction. Cooking lessons are held every week daily in the morning starting at around 11 am, followed by a cooking class that lasts about 3 hours and followed by lunch with the executive chef.

Cost is Euro 170 per person including lunch. Alternatively it can be booked as a part of  the “Flavors of Chianti” book package. Classes are hosted all year except when we closed between (10 January and 10 March approximately). E-mail : info@mangiacane.it

OH AND YOU LOVED THIS RECIPE!
Here is the Fresh Zucchini salad recipe:

Ingredients:

5 medium sized zucchini’s (must be light green in color and preferably flowering)
4 table spoons of Pine nuts (toasted)
2 sprigs of fresh marjoram
Rocket Parmesan shavings to garnish

2 table spoons of fresh lemon juice
4 table spoons of grape seed oil
Maldon salt and freshly ground white pepper

Method:

Finely slice the zucchini’s and place in a bowl. Add pine nuts and marjoram (stalk removed). Season with Maldon salt and ground white pepper. Dress with grape seed oil and mix. Allow the salad to “rest” for 5 minutes. Add lemon juice and mix again.

To serve:

Place rocket leaves on plate and place salad on top and garnish with freshly shaved parmesan. Best enjoyed with a glass of Villa Mangiacane Shimiso Rose.

Buon Appetito!

Most people in large cities like New York, Paris, Moscow, and London are back to work from the Summer vacation season. Through time, I have personally earned, the luxury of making my own work-leisure schedule, therefore I decided to experiment wine-tasting around the Tuscan vineyards of the Sangiovese grapes.

The world renowned Chianti wine growing region was designated in 1716 describing the region near the villages of Gaiole, Castellina and Radda in Chianti. The so-called Lega del Chianti and later Provincia del  Chianti was completely re-drawn 1932. Today it is divided in seven sub-areas: Classico, Colli Aretini, Colli Fiorentini, Colline Pisane, Colli Senesi, Montalbano and Rafina.

At the Florence airport, next to a chic Salvatore Ferragamo outdoor, owner Angelo ’s driver of Naples-based Turco Global Service was waiting for us with the keys of the magnificent Maserati Grand Turismo rented for the brief stay in the region. We thanked the charming driver with dark glasses (I imagine Persol) and quickly jumped into the car. It’s a sunny and warm day. On the A11 highway South towards Rome we exit at the Firenze Certosa exit.

Following precise instructions, after about half hour we are passing through the minute town of Tavarnuzze until we find on the right a crossroad with a little bridge just after a restaurant called ‘Scopeti ‘ and after about a three kilometer drive, we arrive in a small village called S. Andrea in Percussina. This is exactly where we are supposed to be.

On our right, we see the sign for the restaurant “Tavernetta Machiavelli“  the old house of the intriguing philosopher. We turn right once more, at our right we see from far a big terracotta villa reigning over a large vineyard.

- A sign :”Fattoria Mangiacane” and two statues of Nepolitano Mastinos on the gate posts—am holding my breath tightly—we  have arrived at the impressive Mangiacane estate. Watch!

Joelle’s Tips:

The Luxury Cars rentals: Turco Global Service:

Office Divisions: Capri/Sorrento/ Costa Smeralda/ Bologna
Tel. +39 081 19575148 – Fax +39 081 5746110
napoli@turcoglobalservice.it

The Restaurant: One of the oldest Historic sites of Italy! Alberghetto Tavernetta Macchiavelli Via Scopeti 64-  Sant’Andrea in Percussina -50026 – San Casciano Val di Pesa, Florence

Tel:+39 055 828471 / Fax:+39 055 828471

” All difficult things have their origin in that which is easy, and great things in that which is small”

Lao Tzu

My first trip to China was 29 years ago.

I remember Chinese people only using dark blue and green military uniforms. There were almost no cars and most would move around with black bicycles making a hell of a noise with their bells, that made our nights impossible to sleep.

I also remember at them staring at me with absolutely no manners which I found terribly uncomfortable and somehow scary. Later our guide explained that they had never seen blue eyes and fair hair before coming across with me, that they were as surprised as me guarantying that it was a completely innocent look.

When having a Chinese breakfast in old Peking (now Beijing) I asked the  hotel housekeeper why I would only find military propaganda on TV , no love stories, soap operas , and reinforced  the concept asking a second question ” Where do you keep your libido, your desires  after all?”  The answer had been very clear: Pointing a finger in her forehead, the young woman replied in a dry authoritarian tone “  We keep it  here, side by side with the revolution!”

I was very young at that time, and watching early morning Tai – Chi Chuan practices everywhere we went, left me a strange sense of these people lack of individuality, manners, and powerless cultural imprisonment. Never in the whole world I would even imagine what could have been instead a message of automated spirituality.

As I grew older, on my way back, life knocked at my door with different challenges, harsh adjustments and a bowl plenty of dissatisfaction.

The dreams I though were easy to reach needed more work, the people that I thought would be easy to live with turned to be sometimes unmerciful opponents, the surrounding cultures I assimilated  during the years were far from familiar with the one I grew up with.

For several years, trying to understand the laws of life, and of my own , I cultivated my home garden like Voltaire,  on a hilltop of the hectic city where I lived,  as a sort of temporary retirement every afternoon up to sunset.

Tai-Chi Chuan became my  ultimate raison-d’etre ;  I  slowly started  to get more acquainted about the Inner and subtle movement of mother Yin in conjunction to Yang ;  Suddenly it was all strangely fitting into place, awareness of the present moment made true physical sense to me.

While witnessing birds sang among trees, and  fresh hilltop breeze caressed my face, I found myself   ” Waving Hands Like Clouds ” ,  “Tossing , Shaking and Parting the Horse’s Mane” , ” Spreading Wings like the White Crane” ” Piking the Needle for the Bottom Of The Sea ” ” Flashing  the Arms like a Fan“  ” Stepping Back and Repulsing Monkey” “Hitting the Opponent with Two Fists”,  reconnecting at last with my apparently lost Oneness and  inner Emptiness. The city heavy traffic from  far,  was surprisingly no longer,  a threat to me.

Several years have passed since that fresh glimpse of  ‘ Temporary Eternal enlightenment” .

In Manhattan this weekend I decide after a wonderful Tunisian Couscous at Cafe Gitane, to go to the movies to watch the Karate Kid remake. Grabbing headlines, the film has been a huge hit since its release last week.

Bullies have their eyes and fists on 12-year-old Dre (Jaden Smith) after he and his mom (Taraji P. Henson) move from Detroit to Beijing. Luckily Dre’s maintenance man (Jackie Chan, who shouldn’t be fighting kids) is also a kung fu master willing to teach Dre discipline and the art of defending himself.

The Karate Kid” maintains the original’s sense of loneliness in a new place and the mental and physical oppression of bullying . Of course, isn’t out to acknowledge—and reinforces Asian stereotypes when Dre says, “It’s China, mom; everybody knows kung fu.”

The movie takes place in China. Some beautiful scenes are shot in normally inaccessible locations as the Great Wall and the Forbidden City but the ones in the stunning mountains landscape of the old Province of Henan, located in the eastern central part of the country caught my breath.

The moment you arrive in a monasteries peak where” real Kun Fu“  was thought by  Mr. Han (Jackie Chan) ’s father,  you  come to learn about the secret of victory over the world , now physically at your feet.

The form of meditation is called “Chan” or “Zen“.

Meditation also allows one to focus his inner energy into his actions. The Japanese call this Chi, and many Westerners have heard of it. The Chinese, however, call it Kiai. Kiai allows a Kung Fu student to do things their physical body alone cannot do.

Developing control over your Kiai is a matter of intense mental strength and conditioning. While some people may scoff at the idea of Kiai, and it is true that it might be more of a mind over matter application than an actual force, but Chinese Kung Fu masters has demonstrated their control over their Kiai by doing physical feats that would otherwise be impossible.

Shaolin monks would prepare their minds to withstand the most terrible conditions so that when faces with those conditions in the real world, they would be prepared instead of shocked. Knowing that you have the mental toughness and readiness instills a confidence that allows you to go into any situation ready to act without hesitating. Self doubt is the number one way to be defeated before the enemy has even thrown a punch.

Shaolin Kung fu is not just about defending yourself against an attacker or inflicting bodily harm. Shaolin martial arts also stress discipline, respect for yourself and others, patience, and being humble even in victory. The mental training of Shaolin martial arts helps prepare the student for any events that may come.

Being physically prepared for an alteration is good, but if you are not mentally prepared you will not be focused enough to use the tools that your body has. This is why Shaolin meditation is such an important part of the Shaolin martial arts training. Meditation may not be literally practicing your physical tools, but it allows your mind to make better use of those tools.

Keeping cool in a self defense situation is one of the best ways to ensure you will survive. Tough mental preparedness allows the body to be pushed beyond its physical limits.

Out bodies can only do so much, but our minds allow for much greater feats. I am sure you have heard of “mind over matter” and the truth is that it works. When the Shaolin added mental training to their physical training the result was that their martial arts system obviously surpassed all others in application and practical results.

Kung fu Shaolin monks practiced Chinese martial arts not just for self defense , but as a way of life intended to benefit them on a physical, mental and spiritual level. In times of hardship, such as the financial crisis that we are facing now, this knowledge helps us cope with our modern fast paced lives that lead to stress and anxiety.

The legend of the Shaolin temple and its Shaolin martial monks was first born around the year 540 AD, when the Indian monk Bodhidarma traveled to China to see the emperor. Bodhidarma introduced to the Shaolin monks eighteen movements derived from traditional Indian Yoga.

This was designed to increase their physical and mental strength as well as the flow of Chi energy. It was these eighteen movements that would become kung fu (KF) as we know it today, after being perfected and expanded for nearly 1,500 years.When Bodhidarma introduced Kun Fu to the Shaolin monks, it was to build their mental and physical strength to prevent them from falling asleep during meditation.

When we look at the story of Shaolin, we see the benefits that Kun Fu was originally intended to give us.

KF has been constantly perfected and built upon over the centuries, creating the vast array of styles and variations that we know today. One of the most popular styles today is called Hung Kuen, which is a style based upon the original Southern style of Shaolin Kung fu.

Although KF has changed over time and often become more focused on the ‘martial’ side of things, the core messages and philosophy remain the same as what Bodhidarma taught the Shaolin monks nearly 1,500 years ago.

Kung fu incorporates not only Buddhist philosophy, but also the philosophy of Taoism (pronounced ‘Daoism’). The teachings of the founder of Taoism, Lao Tzu and his manuscript the ‘Tao Te Ching’ have been incorporated into the teachings of KF, teaching us how to live in harmony with nature and within ourselves.

Over the centuries, Shaolin monks incorporated many different animal styles into their KF, On his journey from India to China, the Bodhidharma developed a fighting system based on his observations of the way animals fought in the wild. Arriving at the Shaolin Temple, he put the monks to work learning his fighting system. The animal styles became so numerous that the virtues of all animal styles had to be summed up, hence the five animals of Kung fu. These are:

The tiger , representing power and ferocity Shaolin tiger style kung fu is direct, powerful and decisive. Since tigers have no predators, tiger kung fu is all offense. The crane , representing speed and fluidity, relies on elegance, patience and evasion. Crane kung fu allows an opponent to use their energy to defeat themselves. The snake , representing speed and accuracy, strikes are lightning quick, like a snake biting an enemy. The leopard , teaching us to use our heads and to think in our fighting , and the dragon relies on internal strength and power. It utilizes soft, circular motions that coalesce into sudden destructive power, representing the mastery of all styles, thus making them one.

Through mastering the different animal styles one can achieve a balance in our training. A balance between power and speed, between soft and hard, between ferocity and calmness. This balance is carried forth into our daily lives, helping us to create a perfect harmony between ourselves and others in our lives.

Kung fu training is designed to not only help the individual with his self defense, but to build our fitness, focus, discipline and confidence.

Through KF training, eight wisdoms of KF are thought : respect, loyalty, tolerance, perseverance, patience, dignity, humility and honor.

These wisdoms  are of help not only for the training, but also to be successful in everything that we do In our  fast paced lives  that often  cause us  stress and anxiety – goes without saying in times of hardship such as the financial crisis that we are facing now.

I look nostalgic at old photos taken almost 30 years ago in particular one of myself  in a light green scarf and a red sweater visiting a communist China before the Coca Cola regime.  Such a long ago….

I stare inquisitively at those pictures depicting children with colorful coats wandering what else I could learn from their country, such a giant player with a voluntarily an erased past…The answer to my question comes almost instantaneously as my eyes in disbelief are reading an article from last week  Telegraph  that says- quote: ”

” The temple in central Henan province, famous as the birthplace of kung fu, has established an eBay-style store selling Shaolin branded merchandise on China’s TaoBao auction site.
The site is operated by Shaolin Zhiye, the temple’s commercial arm, which is behind an array of ventures exploiting the Shaolin legend, including film productions, touring martial arts shows and even a reality-TV program.

The site does not offer the secrets of immortality but for 10,000 yuan (1,450 dollars), fans can buy a three-volume set of kung-fu and medical secrets. More modest offerings include a wristband and environmentally-friendly chopsticks.
Despite their name, critics say, the temple’s current occupants are not genuine Shaolin monks because the spiritual side of their art has been replaced by crass commercialism.

The venture into the world of e-commerce is the latest involving Shi Yongxin, the abbot of the monastery who has developed a reputation for clever financial dealings.

He has been criticized for accepting a brand new luxury car for his services to the local tourist industry but supporters say he has done much to popularize the town, which has more than 80 martial arts clubs and schools with around 50,000 students.”

Amused I finally reflect on my past fears, the ones that unconsciously haunt my sleep and the Shaolin monks unusual fresh marketing activities…

Mr. Han (Jackie Chan) , the karate Kid’s master would respond about the ghosts in my mind:  ” Face them, fight them, friend them!” . And, no doubts my dear friends…. this is real Kun fu!

Joelle’s Tips:

Sources: The Daily Telegraph /  E-how / Golden Lion Academy of Kun fu / Shaolin Gun Fu Institute / China Travel /

The Movie: The Karate Kid

The Academies in China: Travel  Study Kun fu at the The Shaolin Temple /  Study Tai Chi Chuan Taijiquan (tai chi or taiqi) or Shaolin Gongfu at Buddhist Temple

The Academy in India :  Study Yoga in the Hymalaya

My thanks for the contribution of All Right Reserved  copyrighted pictures courtesy of: Rick Archer ( landscape) ,  2010 Sony Pictures Digital Inc. (Karate Kid ) ,  About.com Can Chu Getty Images , Wikipedia Coomon rights ( Pagoda) /Larique ( Chaolin Kun Fu)    Sanmenxia & Luoyang, (Burn Incense) ,